Using my EV without a transmission gear did not work for my EV. My EV now
weighs 5500 lbs with 324 Li Ion cells. The differential is a 5.57. Use a
torque tube from TCI that connects the motor coupler to the transmission using
a gear ratio of 1:1 which gives a overall ratio of 5.57:1.
Taking off at 1 rpm, the motor ampere went above 800 amps while the battery
ampere was about 300 ampere. It was a big jolt at the start that broke the 1:1
gear.
Remove the manual transmission and install a modified GM TH-400 automatic
transmission converted to a manual shift that has a very low rpm torque
converter that starts to lock up at 300 rpm instead of 3300 rpm for a engine.
The modulator and governor is removed from this transmission.
Install a idle control that allows very smooth startup. This time, the motor
ampere at startup is now between 100 to 150 ampere while the battery ampere is
between 50 to 30 ampere. There are six strings of batteries, so that cell
ampere is between 6 and 8 amperes!!!
Very smooth acceleration and now can out accelerated most of the ICE cars at a
stop light going up hill!!!
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: EVDL Administrator via EV<mailto:[email protected]>
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List<mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2016 11:04 PM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Conversion planning
On 26 May 2016 at 21:11, Alan Brinkman via EV wrote:
> Some of the
> older Datsun mini-trucks had a rear axle ratio that would have the drive shaft
> spinning faster and some conversions did without the transmission. The few I
> looked at on the EV Album had a 4.88 rear end.
I don't know if this will help, but most of the Comuta-Cars used a 5.17 rear
axle (Dana model 12). Some shipped to hilly regions had a 6.83 axle (Dana
model 18). I had a 5.17 in mine and it was really too high a gear for the
GE motor they used, IMO. The 6.83 was probably better for almost anybody,
but it knocked a couple mph off the car's already unimpressive top speed.
You calculate what ratio you need from motor red-line, point where the motor
/ controller pair's torque curve flattens, tire circumference, your desired
top speed, and probably other things I've forgotten (since I'm not an ME).
Typically AC induction motors used for conversions can stand, and like,
higher RPM (~8-10k). They'll appreciate lower gearing (numerically high
ratio). DC motors run slower, and in general, the bigger they are, the
slower, so they'll usually be more suited for situations where you can't get
very low gearing.
Smaller diameter wheels/tires, if they can be fitted to your vehicle, can
help you attain lower gearing if you need it. Again using the C-cars as an
example, they came with 4.80-12 (or was that 4.20-12?) tires and, later, 135-
80r13 radials.
An interesting option might be to try space-saver spare tires. They'll look
like an awkward, gangling adolescent kid and may not handle too well.
However, they're usually cheap at the boneyard, so may be worth a try.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EVDL Administrator
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