I actually have a Zeva sitting on my workbench. It had the same problem. I replaced it with the AutoblockAMP in large part because of the programmability of the latter plus the packaging is much more industrial.
Thanks Bill. I'm actually quite versed in Arduinos. I built a battery box heat controller using a Pro Mini, a relay board and some temperature probes. I have an ISAScale high precision shunt with CANBus output that I'm playing with that I'll use an Arduino to read and to display SOC, Amps, etc on a small LCD that I'll imbed in the dash. I actually do have that setup driving a fuel gauge. I was resisting going that route for this just because I also have to find a place to put it, get an appropriate power supply, etc. But it may be the best option. --Rick > On Oct 26, 2016, at 1:33 AM, Tom Keenan <[email protected]> wrote: > > I have a similar device in my old Electron Ford Escort - a ZEVA fuel gauge > driver plus. It works quite well with the old Ford analog gauges. > http://www.evwest.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=144 > You might try their setup file - might be the same device as the one you > have, just made in Australia. > Tom Keenan > >> On Oct 25, 2016, at 1:05 PM, Rick Beebe via EV <[email protected]> wrote: >> >> I have a 1998 Ford Ranger (http://evalbum.com/4674) that I bought as a >> lead-acid EV and converted it to Lithium. In the process I replaced >> almost everything. I bought an AutoblockAMP from RechargeCar (sadly, >> discontinued). It's a slick hall-effect current sensor that measures >> current and counts amp-hours. It outputs a pulsed signal to show amps on >> a tach (works great). It has another line that puts out 12v to light up >> a "low battery" light at some specified threshold and a third one that, >> I believe, uses PWM to ground to simulate a variable resister to drive >> the fuel gauge to show SOC. >> >> I have the service manual for the truck and indeed it shows a single >> wire from the gauge to the sensor in the tank. 22ohms empty and 240ohms >> full (that's from memory so don't quote me). The problem is it doesn't >> work. Connecting that wire to ground through any resistance does >> nothing. The engine computer (PCM) was removed during the initial >> conversion. The fuel sensor wire also went to the PCM but I don't see >> anything in the wiring diagram that should influence the gauge. What I >> have discovered is that I can make the gauge work by supplying voltage >> rather than a connection to ground. 2volts is empty and 9volts is full. >> >> I haven't got a clue as to the piece of magic that the PCM (or some >> other wire) must have provided such that the gauge is now "backwards." >> So I've tried seeing if I can convert the AutoblockAMP signal. My first >> attempt was to use it as 1/2 of a voltage divider and that sort-of >> worked except for finding the right value to drive the gauge full scale. >> Plus if, while I'm adjusting the ABAMP and I get too close to one end >> of the scale the resister burns up. My second attempt, thinking it was a >> PWM signal, was to use a PNP mosfet. That looked promising but isn't >> driving the gauge linearly enough. It goes from full to empty in the >> first quarter of the SOC. >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20161026/30a0717a/attachment.htm> _______________________________________________ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org Read EVAngel's EV News at http://evdl.org/evln/ Please discuss EV drag racing at NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
