I will assume you will be only loading the connectors with today's standard of power factor corrected (pfc) chargers (no current spikes). Spiky current loads make connectors cook. If you get a chance to see an old 1990's conversion using a spiky BC-20 (light dimmer) charger that has a L6-30 connector (usually at the gas filler inlet), you will see it is discolored from over heating (this is a bad thing).
I have pushed the envelope on what connectors can and can not handle, on my former Blazer EV http://brucedp.neocities.org/blazer/ I have proven what was posted by a member on the evdl a long time ago. That it is the amount of metal to metal (the size of the connector's blades) is what determines how much current they can handle and for how long. I found in general, you an push the rated current, i.e.: an L6-30 to handle 30A, even through the electrician code legal limit only allows 24A be pushed through it (for the noobs: the 30A is de-rated to 24A). I have used a NG5 Zivan (~60% pfc) pulling 30A through a 12-3 extension cord using a NEMA 6-15 receptacle. Yes it got warm, but not right away. I imagine some of the NG5 current spikes were smoothed by the smaller gauge 12-3 cord (50'). I understand your idea of using a common connector. In the back seat of my former S-10 Blazer EV, I kept a small gym bag full of connectors, 1' pig tails, and the tools needed to build up just about any adapter I would find (14-50, 6-20, L5-30, 14-30, l6-30, etc.) http://www.titleboxing.com/title-individual-sport-bag?gclid=CPT9v4bsjtECFYYBaQodw_MDdw (this bag is so cheap probably because it is pink, mine was dark gray). I have also pulled 30A through a L6-30 to a Manzanita Micro pfc-30 charger using a 10-30 extension cord (50'). It barely got warm. I imagine the high (90+%) pfc was a factor in keeping waste (resistive) heat down. In both of those situations, I had been charging at the 30A level for at least 4 hours. Heat builds up on cords, and connectors over time. So, a more valid test is to let it charge for at least 4 hours at the high current you desire (30A). A data center guide: http://www.powersourceonline.com/magazine/2010/05/data-center-power-connections wants you to stick with the electrician code but also know how many Watts you are carrying. Everyone should be regularly checking their connectors. If they are warm, watch them more closely for discoloration. Discoloration means over heating. Over heating is more than cooking the metal prongs/tangs, the cords, and the receptacle are also cooked. The metal on over-heated/discolored plugs and receptacles will have more metal to metal resistance, thus at some point may go into a run-away over-heating situation (can you say fire?). Using a cooked plug in a good receptacle can cause premature damage to that good receptacle. Also, cooked cords, need to be cut back until you find wire that is not aged/tarnished/dark from over heating. Note, anyone in an area like CA that has earthquakes, it is important to not use locking connectors (the NEMA codes with a L). The (straight blade) connectors need to be able to self disconnect if an earthquake has the vehicle move/dance around. Else, the vehicle movement will rip the connector apart and live bare wires will be exposed (shock, fire, more). 240VAC 30A is 7.2kW. Electrician code wants you to de-rate it to 24A which is 5.76kW. 24A is what should be drawn by a L2 4.5kW j1772 EVSE. 30A is what should be drawn by a L2 6kW j1772 EVSE. (For the noobs: ) To be legal is to follow electrician code which insurance and city governments expect you to do. If you push 30A through a 30A connector, it is: - not legal - insurance and city gov/inspectors will not allow its use (in general have a serious hissy fit) - the cords and connectors will have to be watched and checked on routinely to ensure they are not warm/hot. To check all of these just once in the beginning, and then assume all will be well from then on is not reality. Pushing more current is pre-aging cords, wires, connectors. They will die a quicker death, thus why to have-to watch and regularly check on them when you push you current above what is allowed. I know all this because I have done it, and have learned from experience what not to do. For EVLN EV-newswire posts use: http://evdl.org/evln/ {brucedp.neocities.org} - On Sat, Dec 24, 2016, at 11:32 PM, David Nelson via EV wrote: > Please note that I am not asking about electrical code here! I know > what the code says. > > What is the actual sustained current carrying ability of the NEMA > L6-30 plug/sockets? Just like a NEMA 5-15 can handle 20A (16A > sustained) since the pins are physically the same as on a NEMA 5-20 > are the L6-30 conductors large enough to handle a 50A circuit with 40A > max continuous current? > > I want to use the L6-30 for the connectors for the various plug > adapters for a portable EVSE I want to build but don't want to use a > different plug because I already have the adaptors from another EVSE. - -- View this message in context: http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/Actual-current-carrying-ability-of-NEMA-L6-30-tp4685052p4685058.html Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at Nabble.com. _______________________________________________ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org Read EVAngel's EV News at http://evdl.org/evln/ Please discuss EV drag racing at NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
