The controller may be perfectly fine.
If there is no voltage on points L3, L5 and L7 *in reference to traction 
battery negative* then fuse 3 (15 amps) is blown or a mis-wiring has happened,
because only fuse 3 and the key switch are between L3 and battery positive.
This discussion list is actually hosting a library with EV component manuals.
The list of controller manuals can be found here:
For the description that you gave, I looked at page 3 of:
but there are many more documents of the EV-1 controller available as well.
Let us know if you need more help.

-----Original Message-----
From: EV [] On Behalf Of ptandjb via EV
Sent: Friday, October 20, 2017 5:28 AM
Cc: ptandjb
Subject: [EVDL] 85 Year Old Uncle Worked 30+ Years on EV, Needs Help

I have also posted on but no response yet,

I am trying to help my 85 year old uncle realize one of his bucket list items 
while there is still time, to drive this car at least once. He has been working 
for over 30 years to slowly build an electric car using the GE EV1-B controller 
that he purchased in 1984. The car chassis was hand built:
It was finally finished recently and is in a machine shop in Ludlow 
Massachusetts. When we attempted to power it for the first time it failed.
Overview of controller assembly:
I have attempted to study the schematics and all available documentation. In my 
distant past I have a degree in electrical engineering so I should technically 
understand all documentation and pretty much understand how things should work.
Using the “General Electric EV-! B, C, D Panel Replacement parts Lists and 
Troubleshooting/Tune-Up Instructions” manual,  I noted that with SEAT and BRAKE 
switches bypassed and KEY, FWD, and ACCEL switches appropriately set per 3rd 
bullet point in Symptom section 1B there is not BV at L3, L5, and L7, just 
minimal voltage. It appears but not confirmed that the new never used but 30+ 
year old EV1-B controller is defective and am at a loss on how to proceed. Any 
advice would be appreciated.

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