All modern LEDs are (ultra) high brightness
and "high efficiency" is another term for the same thing.
In fact, it will be difficult to find the old low-brightness LEDs
for the green, so you might need to accept that green will also
be very bright. It does not make a difference for the operation of the bridge,
since the operating voltage of a LED is determined by its material, which is
different for each color, so LEDs on the RED end of the spectrum have the lowest
operating voltage (infrared even lower) while LEDs on the green/blue end of the
spectrum have the higest operating voltage.
This is independent of being a high brightness or efficient LED, that just 
tells that
the LED turns more current into light.
The short is - buy any red or green LED and if the green is too bright for your 
put something in front to reduce its glare or mount it so it points in a 
direction then from where you are seeing it, so you only see it indirectly.
Hope this clarifies,

-----Original Message-----
From: EV [] On Behalf Of Kevin Trombley via EV
Sent: Friday, January 05, 2018 8:12 AM
Cc: Kevin Trombley
Subject: [EVDL] Lee Hart's Batt-Bridge

 I am assembling a few Batt-Bridges.
In the description it specifies D2 & D3 are "red high-efficiency LED" & D1 is 
just a green LED. the written description down below it says: "Use an ordinary low 
brightness green" & "the red LED's should be high brightness types -- the 
brighter the better, so you can see them even in daylight.

So, we have 

...a. "red high-efficiency LED"

...b. "the red LED's should be high-brightness types"

...c. looking on-line I have found LED's labeled as "ultra bright"

All say about the same thing (I think) but, it's NOT CRYSTAL CLEAR for the lay 
person (your average DIY guy or gal)

...for the record, which LED's are the "right" ones for building a Batt-Bridge?

...what is the "proper" size/gauge wire to be used on Batt-Bridges?

(It will carry pack voltage but, only ~10 - 20ma) Thanks,          Kevin      
Functional Artist to use?
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