The easiest is to run a new cable! Long runs don’t matter it the wire gauge is 
right! 00 gauge should be enough.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 15, 2018, at 10:39 AM, Christopher Darilek via EV <[email protected]> 
> wrote:
> 
> Continuing my plea for help, and seeing that the Zilla is a high-side switch, 
> which of the following options should I pick? The top half of my battery is 
> under the hood and the bottom half is in the trunk. My motor is under the 
> hood (of course). And my old controller was in the trunk (original idea was 
> to protect from the elements). So I have 3 cables running under the car: from 
> battery+ to controller B+, motor- to controller M-, and one connecting the 
> middle of the 2 batteries together. 
> 
> So should I:
> 
> 1. run a new cable from Zilla M+ to motor+ (have 4 cables running under the 
> car)2. swap the polarity of the front/rear batteries (top half in trunk, 
> bottom half under hood, moving contactor from hood to trunk, still having 3 
> cables under the car)3. move the controller to under the hood (then would 
> only have 2 cables under the car: battery- to M-/B- and one connecting the 
> middle of the 2 batteries together, this would require me also moving the 12V 
> battery to the trunk to make space for controller)
> Should I be concerned about long power runs? 4 cables under car vs. 2 cables, 
> etc? I also use a Lithiumate BMS and they warn that the Zilla is noisy and 
> can interfere - would option 3 be any better in the case? 
> 
> Thanks!Chrishttp://www.evalbum.com/4743
> 
> 
>    On Saturday, September 15, 2018, 9:08:23 AM CDT, Christopher Darilek via 
> EV <[email protected]> wrote:  
> 
>  Ahhh, its a high-side switch? 
> 
> B- and M- are common inside the controller, correct?
> Thanks,Chris
> http://www.evalbum.com/4743
>   
> On Saturday, September 15, 2018, 8:28:44 AM CDT, Christopher Darilek via EV 
> <[email protected]> wrote:  
> 
> Hi all. I'm upgrading from a Curtis 1231C to a Zilla 1k to refresh my EV 
> grin. 
> 
> The 1231C used a common power connection for B+ and M+, however these are 
> separated on the Zilla (and I do not measure continuity between). What 
> topology does the Zilla use that B+ is not connected to M+? 
> 
> Anyway, running a separate M+ cable to the controller will be a moderately 
> difficult job. I assume this is really needed? Grr, thought I could knock 
> this out today. I can't find anything in the archives or online about this..
> 
> Thanks,ChrisChris' 1972 BMW 2002
> 
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> 
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