>> what size were you looking for on which car model?

The EV is a 1981 VW Rabbit.

I don't know how particular I can be about size. Logic dictates that narrow is better for rolling resistance. The car (as manufactured) had 155-70R13's on it, but the conversion factory upgraded it to 5-1/2" wide, 13" rims with 175-70R13's, which is the only size that I'm aware of the Invicta GLR's being made in.

The most significant handling upgrade for this chassis is going to 14" rims, they were stock on the GTI versions of the Rabbit. I swapped over to 195-60R14's on my diesel Rabbit on OEM 6" wide rims, and it changed the handling of the car from shopping cart to go kart. My EV has full race-prep suspension with body stiffening braces throughout, urethane bushings, GTI anti-sway bars, Koni shocks, etc, although I probably won't be doing any autoX racing, so handling of the new tires just needs to manage normal street-duty specs.

Anything over 14" makes these cars look silly, and adversely alters the handling. Worse, VW uses hub-centric wheels, so virtually all after market wheels and OEM wheels from other manufacturers never really run true. Even if I wanted to go to a 15" wheel, finding a 4x100 lug pattern wheel with the proper hub-centric fit is a lottery game, with worse odds.

And really drawing it out, nearly all after market wheels will not have the proper ET (offset). The VW strut geometry is designed around the offset of the wheel. Changing the offset throws handling out. The design is that a line drawn down the vertical axis of the strut to the pavement needs to hit the ground outside the center of the tire. Wheels with incorrect offset disturb this. In extreme cases, the car then attempts to self-correct skids by biasing the steering *out* of the skid instead of into it, worsening the danger.

As you might be able to tell, I'm a little particular about messing with the German engineering that went into my cars.

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