Thanks all for the info on checking for cracks and preparing my frame. Now
I have to get started on the project. April will come along fast.
Matt
#67 Red Devil
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Whitling" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 12:11 PM
Subject: Re: [F500] Frame Cracks
It's commonly available. Sometimes it's labeled as appliance paint.
Jan Schmidt wrote:
John,
What company is selling epoxy paint in a rattle can. I wasnt aware that
could even be done?
Personally, I use Banner red Krylon. It will last a long time, if
something isnt rubbing or scraping on it.
Bill Schmidt 88 red devil kawi
John Whitling <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 11/06/06 9:53 AM >>>
I used Epoxy paint (spray can type) and it has proved to be quite
durable. Far better than any other spray paint types.
Steve K. Thompson wrote:
Don't get it powdercoated. When you have to work on the frame again
(and
you will) the powdercoating is very difficult to remove compared to
regular paint and hides new cracks a lot better because it's a little
plastic. You'll work a lot harder getting down to steel and you'll also
end up thinning the surrounding areas once you want once you get below
the coating. Unless someone out there knows something about strippers
that work on powdercoat?
Also check what kind of media they are blasting your frame with. I
personally do not care for sand/glass as it imbeds itself in the
surface
and should be cleaned out prior to welding. There are some different
media out there that do not (walnut, silicon oxide etc).
My 0.02.
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:f500-
[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Chris Reinhardt
Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2006 2:04 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [F500] Frame Cracks
Dave, good advice, as a welder I agree. I would take off all the
bodywork and take pictures of everything, every assembly to make sure
it
goes back the same way. Find a powder coater in your area that will
do
the car when finished, have him sand blast the chassis for you. Put
the
sandblasted chassis up on some horses and like Dave said inspect every
inch with a good light light and a magnifying glass. Get a blue or
red
sharpie and mark every questionable point. Nobody will ever inspect
your
car as well as you will.
Again as Dave said, gusset every pickup point on the car, ie, the
control arm mounting points, rear radius rod and panard points, shock
mounting points.
You can mig or tig it as long as it's not chrome moly, then it's
gas or
tig only. Any good welder should be able to do he job, but either a
guy
that does racecar or aircraft repairs wold be the best, sheet metal
welders would be next on the list...
When you're happy with the welds, send it back to the powder coater
to
finish it up..
I'm in the middle of that myself right now, so I know where you're
at.
I'm going to Krylon the chassis because I know there'll be changes,
but
when I'm happy with it, I'll do the same and have it blasted, inspect
it,
then send it back to get powder coated.
Good Luck!!!!
CR
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