I was moth-free for years in spite of storing raw 
wool in my house.  Then I made the mistake of 
buying some alpaca and not checking it thoroughly 
enough.  Long before I discovered it had moths, 
they had escaped from the alpaca and I've not 
entirely gotten rid of them since.

However, they can be controlled pretty easily.  I 
was going to recommend Ron's Moth FAQ but he beat 
me to it (and, Ron, I think you've had that up 
*much* longer than a couple years :)

I have found that cloth bags--I use cheap 
unbleached muslin but old sheets work well if you 
patch any holes--make a very effective barrier 
against moths.  I keep my fleeces unwashed until 
I'm ready to use them, and some have been in that 
condition for over 10 years (waiting for the 
perfect project, you understand :)  Supposedly 
moths like dirty fleeces better than clean, but 
I've never had an infestation in a raw fleece.

Make a big square bag, with a wide hem at the top 
to accept a drawstring.  I write a large number on 
both sides of the bag with a wide permanent 
marker, keyed to samples attached to index cards 
in my studio.  Fleece goes in bag, tie drawstring 
tightly (I put in a longish cord so I can wind the 
ends around the 'neck' of the bag), bag goes in 
closet, and no moths in spite of having them 
elsewhere in my studio.

Back in the studio, I do two things to help 
prevent moth damage.  I rotate things that are on 
display--skeins, baskets of wool, etc, because 
moths prefer stuff that's not been disturbed for a 
long time.  And for that stuff which goes into 
storage, I add lavender in small bags.

Neither is a perfect solution, especially for very 
fine fibers.  Moths actually like silk and angora 
better than any wool, fine wools better than 
coarse.  I have found silk or angora plies 
'snipped' by moths while the merino wool ply in 
the same skein was untouched.  So stuff like my 
angora stash goes into a plastic storage box, and 
is kept away from sunlight and heating/cooling 
vents.  Whatever container you choose, make sure 
it doesn't have ventilation holes--cover them with 
tape if they do, as moths can get through 
remarkably small holes!  And I make sure such 
containers get a bag of lavender.  The lavender by 
itself probably wouldn't be enough, but together 
with the other protections it helps, plus has a 
lovely scent :)

When I do find an infestation in something 
smallish--since they can't get to my fleeces, I 
always find moths in smaller things--I zap it in 
the microwave to really kill the bugs.  2-3 
minutes on high, with a cup of water to the side 
to act as a heat sink, doesn't hurt anything 
(after all, we dye protein fibers in the microwave 
all the time!), and definitely kills the bugs. 
Larger amounts of fiber will need longer zaps. I 
prefer to keep my batches small, for short zaps.

And these days if there's any chance a fiber I'm 
bringing in might harbor moths, I spread it out in 
direct sunlight on a sheet before I bring it in, 
leaving it for several hours and moving the fiber 
so every bit is exposed.  Moths really don't like 
fresh air and sunshine, it seems :)  Or I wash it 
in very hot water (except silk--cooler water for 
that) if there's any chance it has moths.  Very 
hot means 160 F or higher--not a scientific 
number, just an effective one.

Finally, it helps to do a deep-cleaning of any 
areas where you put protein fibers or use them or 
display them or.....  Very thorough vacuuming 
helps get up some of the eggs and larvae, cleans 
up the scat and old cocoons, and also 'disturbs' 
the area so the moths are likelier to leave in a huff.

I had a bad problem with moths at one point.  I do 
still find evidence of them where I've violated 
the 'rules' here, but not very often.  So I still 
have them, but I also know what I need to do to 
keep them under control.  I just have to do it :)

Holly

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