First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List
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I was thinking exactly the same thing, i.e. make sure you mount the cross 
member before tightening it all down. Thanks for the info. I'm going to play 
with it right now. Just in case, I bought a 4-ton come-along from Harbor 
Frieght today for assistance :)
 
BTW, I used two 7/16" - 1/4 drive long sockets (I think this was the size) for 
my alignment dowels. They work well. I double checked them this morning and the 
subframe alignment holes are a little further out than they should be on both 
sides, i.e. my subframe is doing a little bit of the splits on me. I looked at 
the rearward body mounts and the bolts/donut cushions were sitting towards the 
inside. All three of these observations supports the suspicion that it's spread 
in the back as well. Interesing lesson learned.
 
Thanks,
Sheen> My '67 subframe measures 30 5/16" in between the frame rails at the very 
back. I could squeeze the rails inward almost 1/4" each for almost a total of 
1/2" and could spread them almost the same?distance. Since the 
crossmember?attaches almost midway between the cowl mounts and the rear mounts, 
you may gain half of the total amount that the rails can be moved, which would 
be 1/4" at most. > > David's measurements below are narrower than mine by 5/16" 
which means that yours could be different also. Based on the issues you are 
facing, I think I will bolt my crossmember to my subframe before re-installing 
the subframe to the body. > > I found a much earlier email where a guy had used 
(2) 2" x 5/8" bolts to align his subframe into the alignment holes. Those two 
alignment holes and?diagonal measurements from the cowl/firewall ( two holes on 
the top) to the forward holes of the crossmember should get you where you want 
to be. An article in?a body repair manual I have says to r
 emember this about reassembly, ?"the guys on the assembly line did this all 
day in a matter of moments so it isn't brain surgery". Where is that guy when 
you need him???> > Ronnie
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