On Feb 16, 2010, at 11:12 AM, [email protected] wrote:

> 
> In a message dated 2/16/10 10:36:22 AM, [email protected] writes:
> 
> 
>> 
>> On Feb 16, 2010, at 6:34 AM, John Carmonne wrote:
>> 
>> > I have 3 Imac G3s one 700MHz and two 600MHz. One of the iMac 600s is very 
>> > slow compared to the other two. All machines have the same systems via 
>> > CCC. The profiler specs are the same between the two 600s. I'm kinda 
>> > stumped as to what could be problem. Anyone else have this trouble?
>> 
>> Hi John,
>> 
>> "Snarky Jim" here. I see that a lot on the G3 iMacs that go through my hands 
>> on the way to kids and schools. Sometimes it's a hard drive about to fail, 
>> or software that's FUBAR. But usually it's a mismatch between RAM sticks, 
>> *especially* if the iMac is running OS X.
>> 
>> To resolve the issue, the first thing I do is to check and replace the PRAM 
>> battery, if necessary. Then I do an Open Firmware reset (set-defaults, 
>> reset-nvram, reset-all). Then I run a bad sector test on the hard drive 
>> using Disk Utility while booted to an OS 9.2.1 retail CD. If the hard drive 
>> passes -- and in my experience that's a very thorough and reliable test -- 
>> then I boot the iMac from the Apple Hardware Test disk. Before running 
>> either the Quick or the Extended test I click on the Hardware tab and 
>> compare the specs for the sticks in the two RAM slots. If the specs on the 
>> two sticks are not identical (exception: amount of RAM can vary), then I 
>> swap out sticks until I get a matched pair even if the manufacturer is 
>> different. Then I run AHT. If there's still a problem, AHT will tell you 
>> where it is.
>> 
>> (NOTE: AHT will not run in some early G3/350 and G3/400 iMacs.)
>> 
>> Mismatched RAM sticks in a G3 iMac, in my experience, is the cause of slow 
>> running machines above and beyond any other possibility. The difference in 
>> CL 2 and CL 3 latency specs in a mismatched pair also causes kernel panics 
>> and freezes while booted into OS X. OS 9 is more tolerant, but the problem 
>> still crops up.
>> 
>> Getting the "right" RAM is the most important thing you can do for an iMac 
>> G3. For example, I took in a basket case last Friday. The 500 MHz iMac was 
>> missing the bottom case and the EMI shield, but otherwise was more or less 
>> complete. It wouldn't boot, and I heard a small "sizzle" noise only during 
>> the first attempt to start it. So I took out the two RAM sticks, inserted 
>> one that I knew was good from a previous Apple Hardware Test, and the iMac 
>> started, chimed and booted.
>> 
>> HTH,
>> 
>> Jim Scott
>> 
> 
> Thanks "snarkY Jim" LOL
> That all makes sense because the hard drive is original. And I have to check 
> that the RAM sticks are compatibe, As I remember I bought 6 "512s" and 
> installed all at the same time. I do have a new Pram 
> battery in it, so when I get home I'm going to follow this step by step. I 
> have the 9.2.2 disk and AHT for the G3 iMacs, so maybe I'll learn something 
> this week:-)
> 
> Yorba Linda
> USA

Well I Checked the ram and it's 2 of the 6 sticks I bought from OWC. But I'll 
check as you said when I get to the AHT step.                                   
                       "Yes Dan the Garage door is open"     

I did the open firmware reset,  then booted 9.2.2 but disk first aid crashes 
after about 8 mins. 
     
So I booted 10.4 retail disk via USB  and used Disk Utility from Tiger on the 
HDD I did permission repair first. It said it did a lot of repair here.         
             " the tires are round and black"

Then verify reported OK, and finally repair reported no repairs necessary,  
just to do every thing.                                                         
                                             

I booted AHT the RAM shows DIMM0/j13 512      DIMM0/j14  512 ,             
Apple profiler reports both to be    SDRAM   PC133-322                          
                  "the glow plugs are good"

The extended AHT reported everything passed.                                    
                                                                                
                                                                          "the 
tank's full"   

So I assume If I boot a powered 3.5" HDD via Firewire and it runs properly 
that's still not really a good test because the internal drive is on a 
different Bus??

Now if the display shimmering issue is a CRT is this something I can do? I know 
some will say I can buy the whole machine for a few bucks, but it's not this 
serial #.

John Carmonne
Yorba Linda USA




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