Hi Rolf,

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and your family.
I have been very quiet as took a heart attack back in July and am not having 
too much fun making the adjustments I must make.

Hope all is very well with you,
Charles

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: energiesnaturals 
  To: [email protected] 
  Sent: Thursday, December 26, 2013 7:16 PM
  Subject: Re: [Gasification] Wood heating in the UK - whole log gasification


  Merry Christmas Ken and list ( I am aware that I am a tad late)


  One way to burn whole logs like we do (45cm across x 55 cm long) in an 
efficient way is to build a well closed ,dome shaped burning chamber out of 15 
cm fire brick and have individually regulated, preheated primary and 2,dary air 
, at least 2 pipes either side.
  You build up afire with kindling as you describe it and after 15 min you can 
add  an entire log of pitchy pine and it will first gasify very nicely and than 
burn the charcoal if you want.
  The secret is to keep the  walls of the combustion chamber warm and do not 
use them as heat xchangers!
  You build a convenient xchanger above it and use the hot exhaust gas. Build 
it large enough to reduce the exhaust temp to 90 deg C or less and you will be 
way above 50 % eff. Ours has been working for 20+ years and is still doing fine 
with 2 mm black steel pipes.




  We never cut anything below 55 cm long and never split anything below 45 cm, 
believe me or come and see!


  Cheers and a happy new year


  Rolf






  Enviado desde Samsung tablet

  Ken Boak <[email protected]> escribió:

  Greg


  Thanks for sharing.


  I want to try a few ideas for myself to see if this is indeed possible on the 
small split logs I can produce locally.


  Our heating needs, and indeed modest on account of the mild climate here, but 
I would like to find an efficient solution for all the thousands of acres of 
neglected coppiced hardwood.  Cast iron victorian stoves may be quaint, but I 
am sure there are ways to improve the overall efficiency with radical redesign.


  The main burner/heat exchanger on our 24kW gas boiler is no bigger than a 
gallon paint tin.  Perhaps there is design lesson to be learned here


  Anything to reduce mechanical handling and processing of wood fuels has to be 
a step in the right direction




  Happy New Year 






  Ken





  On 26 December 2013 19:22, Greg Manning <[email protected]> wrote:

    Greetings Ken, and list members.


    Ken, I'm going to point you to a video of the "underside" of a whole log 
(or split) "cordwood as we call it here" stove that is a downdraft gasifier.


    I can speak at length privately, however only somewhat on list, as this is 
a proprietary design. 


    Here's the link to the video:
    http://youtu.be/DNYCfgEdYpg



    Greg Manning



    On Thu, Dec 26, 2013 at 12:59 PM, Ken Boak <[email protected]> wrote:



      Happy Christmas to the gasification list.


      At this time of year, during the festive holiday season, I get a bit more 
time to manage the running of our woodstove, as it rapidly warms the room and 
produces a cheery effect.


      Our property is fairly conventionally heated by natural gas, but a few 
years back, I took the decision to invest in a woodstove with back-boiler, to 
provide an alternative or back-up to the gas fired system.


      The woodstove has a flat steel tank at the rear, the "back boilerr", in 
place of a couple of the firebricks lining.  This circulates heated water 
entirely by the thermosyphon principle to a radiator located in the 
bedroom/workroom directly above the stove. So in effect the stove heats the 
living room/kitchen area  directly, and the room upstairs by circulating hot 
water.


      No electricity is required for circulation, and if worse-case we had an 
extended power outage, this stove would provide heat and comfort in the two 
main occupied areas of the house. Stoking it and attending it is often more 
interesting than what is being shown on TV!


      With a few days off work, I have had time to monitor the stove and make 
some assessments of its overall performance. Its a fairly traditional stove,  a 
rectangular box,, made from bolted together cast iron panels and partly lined 
with firebrick. It's described as a multifuel stove - having been supplied with 
a cast iron removable grate for burning coal - which is not used when burning 
wood. It's approximately 24" wide, 12" deep and 18" tall.


      In the UK, a common size for firewood logs, intended for the domestic 
woodstove is about 10" (254mm) long, and equal to a 1/4 round taken from a limb 
that may have been 5 or 6" in diameter.  The reason for this is that there is a 
lot of coppiced hardwood, which has become mis-managed in the last 20 years, so 
there are a lot of trees with 6" diameter shoots.  The popularity of the 
"firewood processor" machine, means that a lot of this wood is now coming on 
the market as domestic firewood, and sold to suburbanites at vastly inflated 
prices (about $0.50 per kilo).



      I am burning a mixture of kiln dried Silver Birch, and air dried other 
species which includes ash, oak and sweet chestnut. The silver birch splits 
well and makes excellent kindling.  One log is split into 8 or 10 kindling 
sticks and these are built into a pyramid around 2 or 3 sheets of scrunched up 
newspaper. Lighting is quick and easy - as the birch is kiln dried, and within 
5 minutes you will have a roaring fire and the larger logs can be added.


      The logs have an average weight of approximately 1 kg.  I have found that 
a normal burn rate of these is two per hour.  I burn two at a time, and each 
hour, add a further two to the burning char bed from the previous logs.  With 
firewood having a calorific value of approximately 4kWh/kg - I estimate the 
fuel input is in the order of 8 to 10kW.


      Of course, with a traditional stove, so much of the heat energy is lost 
up the chimney, and goes to create the draft.  The efficiency of the stove, 
might be in the region of 50% - somewhat better than the open wood fire.  It 
occurred to me that by way of a 2 stage gasification process, it would be 
possible to increase the overall system efficiency, resulting in less wood 
consumption, or more heat output per log.


      This leads to a question - is it possible to design a gasifier aimed at 
handling whole log gasification - where a log is 10" long and no more than 6" 
across?  Can you recreate the temperatures, turbulence and reactants, found 
within the combustion zone of the woodstove, and use this to thermally process 
a single firewood log, at the rate of one every 30 minutes or so?


      I've had some ideas on how this can be done, effectively using a length 
of 6" diameter stovepipe/fluepipe to make a compact gasifier.  Logs would be 
loaded in from the top, and the length of the pipe chosen to perhaps hold 4 
logs at any time - about 1m  (40") tall.  The bottom log would sit in the 
combustion zone - so the end of this log is constantly under the action of the 
air nozzles. The logs above are subjected to the elevated temperatures and 
begin to pyrolise, char and split on their descent down the tube.


      Beneath the combustion zone would be a fairly conventional hearth, and 
reduction zone, with the char supported by a grate below that. For an overall 
idea of the system - think of HS Mukundas open top gasifier. 


      Use of twin-wall stainless flue pipe would allow the air to be pre-heated 
in the outer annulus - adding to the overall efficiency.  The hot syn-gas could 
be burned in whatever appropriate burner geometry deemed necessary for either 
radiant space heating or water heating with a suitable heat exchanger coil.


      I hope to try to build a prototype of this over the next 10 days (a 
working gasification holiday?)  and to see whether a log can be reduced in this 
manner.  If all that is needed is heat, then the restrictions to produce a tar 
free gas need not apply. If one can use whole logs, without having to resort to 
woodchip - then this will be a considerable saving in mechanical handling and 
wood processing.


      At the end of the day - this gasifying stove needs to be as simple to 
operate as the existing woodstove.  Reloading with a couple of logs each hour, 
and no sophisticated need for fan- forced draft or electricity to operate. 
Draft would come from the chimney as per now - about 25 to 30 feet, 6" diameter.


      If anyone has experience of something similar - please let me know.




      Happy Holidays






      Ken










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