Sorry correction: my wife reminded me and its been more like minus 28c average. 
Wind chill excluded. Lol
H

On 2014-01-05, at 9:50 AM, Henri Naths <[email protected]> wrote:

> Hi Ken
> Thank you for your good analysis of your wood stove. I know there is a better 
> design and I'm not sure if my stove is better or not. 
> Here is the thing. I burn spruce. My supply comes in 5 to 8 inch round logs 
> dried  for ~3 years. Not sure mc but guess around 15%.-20 % I try to maintain 
> a very hot temp so the entire logs gasify and burn over a 12 hr period. 
> (Absolutely no fuel prep. splitting etc is mandatory lol ) It's very fickle 
> in setting damper and air intake but for the most part I am successful. The 
> refractory bricks helps a lot. So that is 2 burns over a 24 hr period. ( it's 
> been averaging minus 20 c over the last two months here so not much 
> choice)Ive run numerous test of my  theory for max efficiency under which 
> this stove operates and settled on this operation because when the stove is 
> shut down anywhere at the height of its max temperature and burn cycle and 
> allowed to cool to 20 c it can be relight with a single match.  
> The volatile gases including h2o could be better used for sure. They cool and 
> condensate on the inside walls of the stove and flue before they frac. 
> completely resulting in biochar.  The problem being the gases should be 
> reheated, frac.ed with a catalyst and burned where the heat would be a 
> benefit to the logs for pyrolysis.  Thus enhancing the entire burn + 20%. ( 
> +++  considering the exponential advantage of said catalysis and resulting 
> heat) 
> A fluidized bed would also be an advantage. 
> I hope this helps. 
> Yours truly 
> Henri Naths
> 
> On 2014-01-05, at 4:11 AM, Ken Boak <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
>> Jason,
>> 
>> Thanks for the interesting comments. I suppose that firebricks are a simple 
>> capacitive thermal mass, to prevent the outer casing of the traditional cast 
>> iron stove from seeing the worst effects of thermal cycling, and to prevent 
>> excessive surface temperature.  
>> 
>> Taking this capacitive idea to the max, I guess is the masonry stove, which 
>> is all thermal mass intended to absorb and slowly release the heat from a 
>> brief but intense fire.  
>> 
>> I have magnetite bricks left over from an electric storage heater (common in 
>> the UK). My intention was to experiment with these for heat retention.
>> 
>> What is the problem with pyrolysis occurring too early?  Is it simply 
>> because fuel is pyrolysing in the wrong place, and there is no means to 
>> transfer the pyrolysis gases to the combustion chamber, or is the problem 
>> tar generation in the fuel magazine?
>> 
>> My motivation for design is a more efficient woodstove, which radiates more 
>> heat into the room in which it's located - say the living room, plus 
>> provides adequate hot water via a heat exchanger to provide heating for some 
>> additional rooms and hot water.
>> 
>> The nominal 8kW stove I have at the moment fails to produce much radiant 
>> heat, and I am sure that the simple heat-exchanger tank at the back of the 
>> combustion chamber seriously effects the combustion temperatures resulting 
>> in more emissions and poor, inefficient combustion. For this reason I 
>> believe that the only way to control emissions and combustion temperatures, 
>> is to first gasify the wood fuel and then burn the wood gas at high 
>> temperature with preheated secondary air.
>> 
>> Traditional stoves generally lose a lot of heat straight up the chimney. 
>> Whilst this generates draft, it is a major cause of inefficiency. Some heat 
>> could be recuperated for secondary air pre-heating, using a simple 
>> concentric heat exchanger made from twin-wall fluepipe.
>> 
>> A good stove should be easy to light, be easy to load, easy to clean out 
>> ash. Additionally it should have a convenient batch burn time, and the 
>> ability to control the heat (turn down), without too much loss of 
>> efficiency.  The stove should be capable of handling the predominant fuel 
>> type (say split logs) without additional fuel preparation.  
>> 
>> There may be good reason to have the stove non-reliant on electrical power, 
>> relying on natural draft and thermosyphoning for it's normal operation.
>> 
>> These are the features that I consider necessary to meet customer 
>> expectations.
>> 
>> Having intensively run my existing stove for around 14 hours per day for the 
>> last 16 days, as the primary source of heat over the festive holiday period, 
>> I am tolerating its less than ideal performance, but am now certain that 
>> there must be a better design.
>> 
>> 
>> regards
>> 
>> 
>> Ken
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