As Lyle already asked is there a hide box in the cage. I usually use two
plant saucers, one overturned on the other with a hole cut in it. I fill
the bottom one with a 50:50 mix of vermiculite and peat then I soak it
completely, but not to the point it has any puddles or standing water(If
they're breeding, you may want to keep it a little dryer as to not drown any
eggs that are buried). My leopards seem to shed very well when provided
this type of retreat. Its important that the entire tank not be too humid
and only the retreat. This gives them a choice of a humidity gradient and
is as important as a heat gradient.
If the skin is dried on, a warm bath like Jim suggested usually does the
trick. I have put about 3/4 of an inch of water in a plastic shoebox,
placed the gecko on the floor in front of the TV and 20-30 minutes, the skin
comes off easily. TC
>From: maia <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: [Gecko] Shed Problems
>Date: Fri, 09 Feb 2001 08:12:40 -0600
>
> I normally lurk much longer than this before posting to anything, but I
>could really use some help. My four year old leopard gecko has been
>having shed
>problems for a couple of months. I've raised the humidity in there
>significantly,
>and I even tried using warm water on a q-tip to loosen some of the skin,
>but
>there's still some left behind after every shed. I read something
>recently that
>suggested using hydrogen peroxide on a q-tip, but I wanted to get
>someone's advice
>before I tried that. The main problems are on his toes, tail, and
>around his
>eyes, and I don't want to get anything strange into his eyes or mess
>with the
>tail too much. Also, I need help finding inexpensive but accurate
>humidity gauges.
>Thanks!
>
>**
>
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