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Thomas.
If your brake pucks got oily, the oil keeps coming out of them as
they warm up when you use the brakes. There is just a Y to each wheel,
so they should be even. If, when you bleed them, the fluid comes out of
the bleeder freely, the chances are that the fluid flow is O.K.. As for
the pitting, if the cylinder isn't leaking where you can see it, and
getting on the pads or disc, there should be no problem. There is very
little movement in the cylinder when you push on the brake, as there is
no return spring on the piston, it just relaxes it's grip and may even
still drag very slightly on the disc. This is off the record, but a
very satisfactory repair can be made to a pitted cylinder or
piston. Remove the cylinder and clean it completely of oil. Sand
it's surface with fine wet and dry sandpaper then wash it out with
starting fluid {ether, Auto starting fluid}, an excellent degreaser,and
pick any pits clean with a dentists' pick or similar. When it's as clean
as you can get it, fill the pits with J.B. Weld or similar two part
epoxy metal repair and filler. When complataly dry, sand smooth. Don't
use more than a very small amount of filler or you will be sanding all
day. You'll find it comes out as smooth as a babys' bum. If they tell
you that the brake heat will melt it, it will also melt the neoprene
O-ring running on it. At that point you have just skidded off the end of
a four thousand foot runway with the throttle stuck full on and your
foot shoving the brake pedal through the floor. I know many of you will
put this down to shade tree mechanics, but I have seen it extend
cylinder life many years with no ill effects. These brakes must work
properly, but are really very low performance units. The only thing high
performance about them is the price of new parts.
Jon Page.
FLAK MAGNET. 415-C
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