Hi all,

So I finally have my problem fully solved for now, and here is a summary of the pertinent points. Beware that some of this may only apply to the MacPorts install of gtk3, I have no experience with any other type of gtk3 install on MacOS.

(1) I had to set my XDG_CONFIG_HOME environment variable to a directory of my own creation containing the file gtk-3.0/settings.ini. The contents of the latter are

[Settings]
gtk-application-prefer-dark-theme = false
gtk-theme-name = Adwaita
gtk-icon-theme-name = Adwaita
gtk-font-name = Cantarell 12

Use the gtk-font-name to specify a font name and size of your choice, but the named font must be MacOS-managed, not X11/fontconfig-managed! Meaning, if you were to open up the MacOS FontBook app you should see it listed there.

You may be able to set XDG_CONFIG_HOME to any gtk3-installed theme directory, e.g., /opt/local/share/themes/HighContrast, but whatever font is being used by that theme (or by default) must be similarly MacOS-managed.

(2) If you want to use a font that is not already managed by MacOS (e.g., Cantarell or any other gtk-ish font not already available in native MacOS), you must install it in one of two ways. You can use FontBook as recommended by many web sources, but I could not find any way to install my fonts in that manner so as to be visible to all userIDs. To do the latter I had to manually use the Finder to drag the desired .ttf file(s) into /Library/Fonts. See http://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201722 for more information.

(3 -- Free Bonus!) Unless you are using a direct gtk-on-Quartz implementation (in which case, please tell me if that's working well and, if so, how you made it so), you will very likely be using the XQuartz X11 server. I have been having intermittent problems with XQuartz startup when invoking various X11 clients, the problem being that occasionally X11 windows are mapped to the display in an unmanaged state (meaning without the MacOS window titlebar and its close/iconify/etc. buttons and with no way to move the window anywhere else on the display). This does not happen often but it's far from rare. When it does happen, it takes XQuartz a *very* long time to start (tens of seconds). This problem has been reported by other users but I have never seen any clear fix, and I have seen one fix that did not work for me at all (changing a Mission Control setting). In my case (and probably all the others), the quartz-wm window manager either died or was just never started. Fortunately for me at least, however, I have so far been able to fix this problem just by manually (re?)starting the window manager with

        % quartz-wm &

May my luck continue and yours be as good, because this is a truly annoying problem!

I hope others find these tips helpful, and thanks again to the list members who helped me grope my way to these solutions!

Roger
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