It sounds like you're ready to roll Jim! Just a couple of points.
1. Take a moist towel and drape it across the body panels below and around
the brake master cylinder. I also usually remove the front fender and set
it aside. Keep some moist rags around in case you have a spill. Brake fluid
will dissolve paint, but NOT immediately. You will have 30 secs to 5 mins
to wipe up any brake fluid depending on the quality of the paint and any
wax that might be protecting it.
2. SLOWLY squeeze the lever when you are bleeding the CLUTCH!! Fluid will
DEFINITELY come squirting out in a stream. Squeeze slowly on the brake
lever too, although it's not as prone to squirting.
3. There is no reason to remove the front wheel and elevate the caliper if
you're just flushing your system.
4. Go ahead and bleed both sides of the rear caliper.
5. Valvoline synthetic brake fluid in the grey bottle is GREAT stuff!
6. Like someone else mentioned you should probably remove the old fluid
from the master cylinder first and fill with fresh stuff. If you don't want
to do this, it's okay, just pump it through.
7. DO NOT, DO NOT, DO NOT LET THE MASTER CYLINDER RUN DRY!!!!!! YOU WILL BE
KICKING YOURSELF ENDLESSLY!!!!
8. Pump, pump, pump, cycle HU, cycle HU, pump, pump, pump, cycle HU, cycle
HU, pump, pump, pump, etc.
Happy pumping!!
Kevin Hawkins // Greensboro, NC
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.geocities.com/raddboy
Y2K Kawasaki ZRX1100 // '93 Yamaha GTS1000
i would like to put in new brake fluid (mostly) and also cycle HU/ABS and
change clutch fluid. i have not done this before. i have read threads.
looked at manual and general cycle maintanance info. i have scouted
resevoirs, lines, and valves. best of all, i have speedbleeders installed.
yay! no mityvac or other special equip avail, but believe none needed
other
than to rig to jump terminals for ABS cycle. no mystical yamaha front
caliper relocation jig in tool kit. i feel like with the good mojo from
the
list this is something i can do.
so, sages, is the deal really to just attach tubing to valves, turn bleeder
valves open some, open fresh fluid and lids on resevoirs, pump levers, do
not allow resevoirs to run dry and pull air in? do this for awhile, do the
ABS mystery dance, do it some more. does that sound pretty much like it,
or
is there some other critical missing element? manual and most writers seem
to deal mostly with air which other than what i'm inhaling i'm hoping has
no
part of this flushing process. i think i can find an archived note about
the little ABS plug part.
oh yes, do you do both bleeder valves on the rear brake? and does that
still really mean there is just one on the front? and then, just the one
for the clutch by L foot, right? s'all? cool!
direct = [EMAIL PROTECTED]
big THANKS!!
-- jim
