Daren,
I noticed this when I replaced bearings in this area last year. The previous
owner/garage had also graunched the flat in the frame mount (part of the
engine) so that the flat would not work, and consequently had not done up
the bolt to the required torque. The idea of having to strip the whole bike
down to remachine the engine was not attractive. I eventually used a thick
washer with the edge turned over to make up the difference to the flat has
was still left. (Put washer in a vice with a little jutting out and bash it
sideways with a hammer! - it'll take a few washers to get it just right!)
I also noticed play between the bolt and the bush - but new items had the
same amount of play. It pays to be careul with the flat, both when
tightening and lossening the nut.
Not having acces to garage stands, etc I had to make a wooden cradle to hold
rear end of bike up while I took off the centre stand to access the relay
arm. I have since had a 20cm hole machined into the centre stand bracket to
allow the bolt to be withdrawn without taking the centre stand off.
MAKE SURE THAT YOU TORQUE THIS BOLT UP TO REQUIRED AMOUNT - OTHERWISE YOU
WILL SOON HAVE AN EXPENSIVE-TO-REPAIR OVAL HOLE IN THE ENGINE CASTING, AND
SLOOPY SUSPENSION TO BOOT.
John W. P. Davies - Product Manager
Trimension Systems,
Whittle House,
Marchants Way,
Burgess Hill,
West Sussex RH15 8QY, UK
tel: +44 1444 480 134 (direct)
tel: +44 1444 250 888 ext 234 (switchboard )
fax: +44 1444 250 777
<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
<http://www.trimension-inc.com>
Trimension - making virtual applications a reality........
-----Original Message-----
From: Spee-dee-D [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: 02 May 2001 15:25
Subject: Rear Suspension - Relay Arm Questions
I've removed my rear swingarm for service and have noticed that the relay
arm has quite a it play in it between the bolt that mounts it to the frame
and it's bushing (not much play between the bushing and the bearings
though). Also when I unscrewed the nut from this bolt (which has a round
head with a flat spot on one side to match a locking tab on the frame to
keep it from turning) the locking tab on the frame broke away allowing the
bolt to turn. I have picked up a grade 8 metric bolt with a standard head
and plan on using it to replace the OEM bolt, but it also has the same play
inside the bushing. Maybe this is an area that doesn't require a precise
fit but I would like to see less free play. Any ideas?
I was also wondering if anyone has ever added grease nipples to these parts
due to the difficulty in getting them out (Ie: removing the center stand).
Thanks
GWN
Daren
