Some grrr8 ideas John, thanks allot. I'll give them a try. Now that you
mentioned the oval starting in the engine casting I could see that
happening. I'll make sure to pay attention to that bolt.
Regards
Daren
-----Original Message-----
From: GTS-1000 Owners List [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf
Of John Davies
Sent: May 3, 2001 5:52 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Rear Suspension - Relay Arm Questions
Daren,
I noticed this when I replaced bearings in this area last year. The previous
owner/garage had also graunched the flat in the frame mount (part of the
engine) so that the flat would not work, and consequently had not done up
the bolt to the required torque. The idea of having to strip the whole bike
down to remachine the engine was not attractive. I eventually used a thick
washer with the edge turned over to make up the difference to the flat has
was still left. (Put washer in a vice with a little jutting out and bash it
sideways with a hammer! - it'll take a few washers to get it just right!)
I also noticed play between the bolt and the bush - but new items had the
same amount of play. It pays to be careul with the flat, both when
tightening and lossening the nut.
Not having acces to garage stands, etc I had to make a wooden cradle to hold
rear end of bike up while I took off the centre stand to access the relay
arm. I have since had a 20cm hole machined into the centre stand bracket to
allow the bolt to be withdrawn without taking the centre stand off.
MAKE SURE THAT YOU TORQUE THIS BOLT UP TO REQUIRED AMOUNT - OTHERWISE YOU
WILL SOON HAVE AN EXPENSIVE-TO-REPAIR OVAL HOLE IN THE ENGINE CASTING, AND
SLOOPY SUSPENSION TO BOOT.
John W. P. Davies - Product Manager
