Hello Erwin and Edmond (and Michel),
Looks like I'm the third Dutch guy looking for a service manual. I checked
repairmanual.net a few weeks ago, and noticed that it's the shipping costs
that makes buying the books unattractive.
What about ordering three manuals at once?
I just checked: shipping three books at once would be $38 (ie, 13$ each),
ordering only one would be $23. Saves each of us a little over 10$ (he,
we're dutch!).
I also asked for the possibility of a discount if we order the three books
at once (sent a mail to repairmanual.net) I'll let you know the outcome
asap.
Arie
Dr. Arie van der Bent
Industrial and Specialty BioChemicals
Division Renewable Resources
ATO
PO Box 17, 6700 AA Wageningen, The Netherlands
Tel +31 317 475 349; Fax +31 317 475 347
Email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
-----Original Message-----
From: Automatic digest processor [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: vrijdag 3 augustus 2001 6:00
To: Recipients of GTS-1000 digests
Subject: GTS-1000 Digest - 1 Aug 2001 to 2 Aug 2001 (#2001-247)
There are 18 messages totalling 642 lines in this issue.
Topics of the day:
1. Thin Air Ride Report?
2. FRONT END WOBBLE/WEAVE (3)
3. FRONT END WOBBLE/WEAVE also tires now (2)
4. Front end wobble...
5. Gas Cap HELP!!!
6. Oooooooo, Aaaaaaahhh!!
7. Filters (was oil)
8. service manual
9. clutch lever
10. Filters[was oil] (3)
11. Help.. (2)
12. Air Filters
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 21:11:30 -0700
From: rkvs <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Thin Air Ride Report?
The results aren't published at this time. There is a rider missing from
mandatory check in Saturday night. Dave and Dan Danielson have stayed there
until today to help with the ground search. They're heading home now and
continuing to check some potential roads the rider might have taken. A
private air search was initiated yesterday with the Civil Air Patrol getting
involved today.
Unfortunately, I'm sure Dave will have quite a story for us when he gets
home.
Roger
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Cordon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2001 8:10 AM
Subject: Thin Air Ride Report?
I know that there were a couple of GTS's in the Colorado long
distance ride over the weekend, including Dave Biasotti. How 'bout a report
when you guys return?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 00:47:49 -0400
From: Walt Garcen and Angela Yee <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: FRONT END WOBBLE/WEAVE
My last set of tires, an MeZ1 in front and Z4 in the rear were cupped
although there was 0.098" of thread left in the front and 0.102" in the
rear. This seems to be a common occurrence on the GTS depending on tire
choice. From a casual inspection there seem to be plenty of life left in
them, but in low speed turns I'd get a wobble if cranked over. Tightening
the headset helped a little, but replacing the tires made a world of
difference. Unfortunately I went against the recommendations of this list
and bought Dunlop D207's and after 1400 miles the front is beginning to show
signs of being cupped again (I'm running 42 psi rear, 36 psi front - checked
weekly).
No matter what, check the adjustment of the head bearings. Even though your
tire has plenty of life left, it may still be cupped. If severely cupped,
consider replacement. RSRBOB will probably respond with other likely
culprits. Hopefully the other listers will share with you what tires work
and what tires cup shortly after putting them on. I'd check also all the
joints in the steering column for excessive play. Also check for play in all
of the bearings and ball joints in the front suspension.
- Walt
-----Original Message-----
From: GTS-1000 Owners List [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf
Of Scot Cameron
Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2001 10:55 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: FRONT END WOBBLE/WEAVE
I know this is an old issue, but my GTS just developed the dreaded
weave/wobble of the front under hard front brake at high speed. The tire is
a good Dunlop. Has the cause of this problem been determined? I appreciate
any info/suggestions.
Scot
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 23:29:58 -0700
From: Kevin Harrington <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: FRONT END WOBBLE/WEAVE also tires now
Actually, I sort of liked the 207's but maybe I'm not
in the majority. Something I DID notice is that when
they are older they do give that squirm under what for
me is "practice" braking--finding the edge of the ABS
in an empty place somewhere. Possibly related to the
cupping, I don't know. I run more PSI in front--about
38-40. Check all those other things too--I didn't but
it went away with a new tire. If you don't like the
cupping (and long for some mileage), get an AVON on
the front!! I currently have an Azzaro II on the
front (120/70) and a Dunlop 205 on the back (170/60).
(Upon checking the fancy new Dunlop site, I found they
actually recommend a 180/55 for a 5.5" rim in the 205
tire)
Hope you solve it!
FL Kev
--- Walt Garcen and Angela Yee <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
snip
Unfortunately I went against the
> recommendations of this list
> and bought Dunlop D207's and after 1400 miles the
> front is beginning to show
> signs of being cupped again (I'm running 42 psi
> rear, 36 psi front - checked
> weekly).
>
> No matter what, check the adjustment of the head
> bearings. Even though your
> tire has plenty of life left, it may still be
> cupped. If severely cupped,
> consider replacement. RSRBOB will probably respond
> with other likely
> culprits. Hopefully the other listers will share
> with you what tires work
> and what tires cup shortly after putting them on.
> I'd check also all the
> joints in the steering column for excessive play.
> Also check for play in all
> of the bearings and ball joints in the front
> suspension.
>
> - Walt
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: GTS-1000 Owners List
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf
> Of Scot Cameron
> Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2001 10:55 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: FRONT END WOBBLE/WEAVE
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 03:04:04 -0600
From: Brandon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Front end wobble...
Also bear in mind...our bikes are capable of stopping faster than any
other street bike out there. That kind of load on the front tire has GOT
to be playing havoc with the tire. Incorrect tire pressure, hard
cornering, etc...will certainly assist in the cupping of the tire, I'm
sure.
Oh...it is also of mention, although it may seem strange, if your back
tire is worn or the rear swingarm is loose, it CAN affect the front end,
ie; tire wobble. Wouldn't hurt to check that stuff out too.
However, most likely, it's the tires. I've also been through the old/new
tire change scenario, and the wobble seems to 'disappear' with new
tires. Until they get worn...and for me...that's WELL worn! (I'm cheap,
what can I say? ;^)
Good luck and let us know what you find!
Brandon
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 18:28:06 +0800
From: Ng Yap Hui <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: FRONT END WOBBLE/WEAVE
I had done more than 2300miles on the Dunlop D207 tires and really love this
tire(Too bad Avon tire doesn't sold in Singapore).My tire size is front
120/70 and back 180/55 (38PSI front and 40PSI back). I tend to notice that
if I am travelling at 160km/h for a few hours, there is a small bloating
shape appearing at the middle of the front tire and the back tire is normal
but there is no wobbleing when travelling at that speed. Does anyone
experience this before on their front tire?
I do recommend that the steering to be tighten a bit harder rather than it
is loose.It also depend on your bearings on the front and back of the
swingarm and also the tire pressure.
My .2 cents view
Yap Hui
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walt Garcen and Angela Yee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> My last set of tires, an MeZ1 in front and Z4 in the rear were cupped
> although there was 0.098" of thread left in the front and 0.102" in the
> rear. This seems to be a common occurrence on the GTS depending on tire
> choice. From a casual inspection there seem to be plenty of life left in
> them, but in low speed turns I'd get a wobble if cranked over. Tightening
> the headset helped a little, but replacing the tires made a world of
> difference. Unfortunately I went against the recommendations of this list
> and bought Dunlop D207's and after 1400 miles the front is beginning to
show
> signs of being cupped again (I'm running 42 psi rear, 36 psi front -
checked
> weekly).
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 03:40:02 -0700
From: Peter Maggiacomo <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Gas Cap HELP!!!
Is your friend blind, or mentally challenged?
Locking gas caps have been around for years and are
not something new. The key hole is plainly visible.
This guy deserves the BOZO award and in my mind
should pay for all repair and replacement costs.
This is a clear act of brute over brains.
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 12:09:53 +0100
From: "nicholas.threader" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: FRONT END WOBBLE/WEAVE also tires now
>If you don't like the cupping (and long for some mileage), >get an AVON on
the front .
What sort of mileage are you getting out of your Avon ?
Nick T
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 08:31:21 -0400
From: Kevin Hawkins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Oooooooo, Aaaaaaahhh!!
I like it!
http://www.motorcyclenews.com/news/detail?sectionID=67356&documentID=66950
Kevin Hawkins // Greensboro, NC
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.freecfm.com/r/raddboy
Y2K Kawasaki ZRX1100 //'93 Yamaha GTS1000 //'85 FZ750
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 08:32:46 -0400
From: Kevin Hawkins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: FRONT END WOBBLE/WEAVE
Good Dunlop? This is an oxymoron when it comes to fitting a GTS. :^)
Kevin Hawkins // Greensboro, NC
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.freecfm.com/r/raddboy
Y2K Kawasaki ZRX1100 //'93 Yamaha GTS1000 //'85 FZ750
I know this is an old issue, but my GTS just developed the dreaded
weave/wobble of the front under hard front brake at high speed. The tire
is
a good Dunlop. Has the cause of this problem been determined? I
appreciate
any info/suggestions.
Scot
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 14:10:44 -0400
From: "Crisler, Jon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Filters (was oil)
RSRBOB, I understand your position, but I disagree with most of your
findings. If your opinion is that the average filter is good enough for
you, fine, I can readily accept that.
I think the original question was "is the stock filter good enough? is
there something better?". I think it is good enough, but there also appears
to be better filters.
Regarding the various filter studies: The numbers were a weighted score
developed by the tester. Emphasis was on filtration quality, i.e. getting
the particles out of the oil as quickly as possible, without affecting flow
and pressure. Things like assembly quality were given low weights as long
as the filter functioned properly. However, assembly quality regarding the
filter media and the bypass valve affect the basic mechanics of the process,
so if they dont fit well, leak/bleed, etc., then you can cause higher wear
or even damage.
As an example, take the steel can thickness. In very cold climates, where
startup pressures can get very very high (over 100-150 psi psi), then the
quality of the can and seal and relef valve is very important. I have a
friend (chevy mechanic) and another (diesel mechanic) that swapped stories
at a party regarding exploding oil filters in cold weather. The chevy guy
who works at a busy dealership mentioned that they get 3-4 cases a winter of
exploding filters. Sometimes it is a seal failure, sometimes the can.
If the bypass valve is of poor quality, it can either let oil get by that
needs to be filtered, or never release causing excessive pressure. This
second cause, along with really cheap filters with NO bypass valve, causes
can/seal bursts.
My brother in law, who lived in West Va. for a while, had a jeep CJ-7. He
lived on top of a very remote hill that was a heck of a climb to the top, on
a dirt road that was more rocks than dirt. He tended to suffer at least 2
flats a year due to sidewall punctures just from his "driveway". One time
on a downhill run, he had a small rock puncture the oil filter, but he
discovered it quickly before damage was done. After that, he always used
Fram HP filters, which have extra thick cases.
If the filter media does not trap dirt quick enough, it leads to excessive
wear. The problem is that this is not obvious until you have high mileage
on the engine. Its the difference between being worn out at 75k miles vs.
still running strong at 200k miles.
The SAE paper and the Dodge guy actually measured the square inches of
filter media, loft of the media, type of media etc. These were also
factored in. The SAE paper tried to quantify the dirt holding capacity.
Amsoil actually prints some sort of specs on dirt holding capacity of their
filters, but I am not sure if anybody else does. They also indicate the
first pass efficency. PS, those scores I mention in the other message were
the subjective scores, not first pass efficency, sorry if I confused the
issue.
Many people advocate changing the filters every other oil change. Dirt
holding capacity them becomes very important.
So I would sum up my position as follows: You have the choice of spending
$200 more over 100k miles of travel for synthetic oil and better filters, to
ensure your engine will go another 100k miles. (I am thinking car, but any
vehicle will fit). OR, After 100k miles, your engine is worn out, but you
saved $200. That is not even counting gas savings due to synthetic oil
(1-4% depending on your source), and time savings by only changing at normal
intervals instead of 3k miles. My opinion is that this extra money is money
well spent.
I will grant you that synthetic oil is where the main benifits occur, and
a better filter has less of a gain, but I feel it is a gain none the less.
Also, you got my curiosity up, perhaps I will cut open some stock GTS
filters and take some pictures fo the list.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2001 9:30 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Filters (was oil)
My question is.
Although you found differences between what was deemed the best oil filter
for other applications, are the differences significant?
Earlier you stated numbers relating to filtration. All the filters had a
different number. In taking the top two as an example, if there was a
difference of 5 in the numbers, all other things being equal, how many
additional miles would one realize before needing the tear down and rebuild
due to wear and tear? 100 miles? 500 miles? 1000 or more? Although hard data
is nice, if it cannot be related to real world scenarios, it looses its
impact. Some of the other factors, and I am not picking on you, also seem
subjective. The thickness of the case, the quality of the pressure relief
valve, length of filter material on the surface are legitimate concerns but
again in the real world are they significant? If the case has reasonable
resistance to puncture, then it is indeed adequate. Things like this to me
are either pass or fail. It works as designed or it doesn't. The pressure
relief valve should not be a factor on a well maintained motorcycle. One
thing I have never seen either is exactly how much debris will an oil filter
hold? Capacity is always a topic, but in reality, how far would one have to
go to "fill" an oil filter media? My point being if the distance it would
take is twice what you would ever go without changing the filter, who cares
if you have that additional storage? Mileage times two plus 20% is no longer
significant either. About the only exception that comes to mind here is the
LDR of the group. I believe they will be the first to tell you that even
they
do not consider their riding styles and tastes within the norm of the
motorcycling public. All in all it sounds like as far as we can tell the
stock oil filter looks to be as good as any out there and better than most.
Other than that....... it is like picking the fly poo out of the pepper.
RSRBOB
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 20:13:40 +0200
From: Ed Konieczny <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: service manual
Hello Michel (and Erwin),
I'm also really interested in a GTS service manual. I've got a 1996 GTS
1000A (since last wednesday). and I am absolutely interested in such a
manual for a reasenable price.
I hope you can help me.
Greetings Edmond
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michel Bijl" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2001 11:13 AM
Subject: Re: service manual
> Erwin,
>
> I have one in Holland.
>
> Michel Bijl
>
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 14:49:05 -0400
From: Walt Garcen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: clutch lever
For many of us, the late engagement of the clutch when releasing the lever
is an annoyance. One lister mentioned that an '93
FZR1000 lever fits, but he only implied that it was adjustable. Is the
FZR1000 lever or any another lever that bolts on
adjustable? If so, which ones? Thanks.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 12:14:51 -0700
From: Peter Maggiacomo <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Filters[was oil]
I have been using M1 for about 13 yrs. now, in all of
my car and motorcycles with unprecidented results.
My GTS has had a steady diet of M1 for the last 43k
miles along with PURE ONE oil filters, designed for
Infiniti Q45. At 46K the GTS consumes 2-4OZ./3000 mls.
With oil changes at 3,000 ml. intervals or there
about, I never need to add oil. That made a 6,000 ml.
trip 2 summers ago a pure joy. Are these results
scientific? Hell no! But they are a real world
experience for me. Do I advocate you do the same?
Absolutley not. Just sharing my experiences.
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 15:17:06 -0400
From: "Crisler, Jon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Filters[was oil]
Interesting, you use the model that is for the Q45 ? It actually fits ?
I only went with the AMSOIL filter (SDF-13) after I called their tech
support people to make sure it would fit, and the pressure relief valve is
properly set for that application.
They were able to cross-check with the Denso filter and found it ws fine.
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Maggiacomo [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2001 3:15 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Filters[was oil]
I have been using M1 for about 13 yrs. now, in all of
my car and motorcycles with unprecidented results.
My GTS has had a steady diet of M1 for the last 43k
miles along with PURE ONE oil filters, designed for
Infiniti Q45. At 46K the GTS consumes 2-4OZ./3000 mls.
With oil changes at 3,000 ml. intervals or there
about, I never need to add oil. That made a 6,000 ml.
trip 2 summers ago a pure joy. Are these results
scientific? Hell no! But they are a real world
experience for me. Do I advocate you do the same?
Absolutley not. Just sharing my experiences.
__________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 17:23:48 -0400
From: "Crisler, Jon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Filters[was oil]
Peter, I checked my Amsoil catalog, and it turns out that all Infinities (at
least in 97) use the SDF-13 filter, which is also used by the Ford Aspire,
Ford Probe and a few other cars.
I was suprised to see it on the V8 on the Q45, because that is quite a small
filter for a big engine. In comparison, the filter for my 97 Suburban with
454 is about 5 times larger, and holds a full quart of oil (about 8 quarts
total for the engine)
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Maggiacomo [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2001 3:15 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Filters[was oil]
I have been using M1 for about 13 yrs. now, in all of
my car and motorcycles with unprecidented results.
My GTS has had a steady diet of M1 for the last 43k
miles along with PURE ONE oil filters, designed for
Infiniti Q45. At 46K the GTS consumes 2-4OZ./3000 mls.
With oil changes at 3,000 ml. intervals or there
about, I never need to add oil. That made a 6,000 ml.
trip 2 summers ago a pure joy. Are these results
scientific? Hell no! But they are a real world
experience for me. Do I advocate you do the same?
Absolutley not. Just sharing my experiences.
__________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 14:22:18 -0700
From: Stan Brzezniak <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Help..
Hi all,
I'm in the process of getting tune up and need a fuel
filter to be replaced. Has anyone had any success
using other fuel filters that don't cost over $100
bucks. Any help would be appreciated.
Stan Brzezniak
94' GTS1000
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 17:34:36 -0400
From: "Crisler, Jon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Help..
>From my archives:
FUEL FILTER
> Yep, the fuel filter is old news. A good replacement is Purolator F44661
> which is the same diameter and about 1 inch longer. Fits nicely into the
> existing holder for about $18. Thanks to Bob Taylor for this info back on
> 8/11/1997!!
-----Original Message-----
From: Stan Brzezniak [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2001 5:22 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Help..
Hi all,
I'm in the process of getting tune up and need a fuel
filter to be replaced. Has anyone had any success
using other fuel filters that don't cost over $100
bucks. Any help would be appreciated.
Stan Brzezniak
94' GTS1000
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 22:05:28 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Air Filters
Does anyone on the list know the procedure to blend a K &N air filter with
the stock filters? I have the old ones and am planning to cut them and find
the fitting K &N filter and "build" them together. I do remember someone
doing that. Specifically I'd like to know the model number of the K&N's.
Would appreciate the help. Dave Schweisgut/Pa
------------------------------
End of GTS-1000 Digest - 1 Aug 2001 to 2 Aug 2001 (#2001-247)
*************************************************************
