Well, actually it's easier than that! You don't have to close the bleeder at all. Just open the bleeder, squeeze, squeeze, squeeze, squeeze and the close the bleeder when your finished. Preferably before the master cylinder runs out of fluid. There is a one way checkvalve in the speed bleeder that eliminates the need to close the bleeder between squeezes. I would get the extended fittings (SB8125L) for the front and clutch and get the standard length (SB8125) for the rear. Do you ever remove the rear wheel without REMOVING the rear brake caliper? With the extended length Speed Bleeders, there is BARELY enough room to do this and you will inevitably scratch the inside of the rear wheel.
Hey! I've got a new home for my website now! Easy to remember too, and fast! http://www.kevinhawk.com Kevin Hawkins // Greensboro, NC [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.kevinhawk.com Y2K Kawasaki ZRX1100 //'93 Yamaha GTS1000 //'85 FZ750 I love the little buggers, squeeze and hold brakes, crack bleeder, close bleeder, get a new grip of the brake and do it again until done. Sweeet. Next is the car! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Boman, Jeff" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Speaking of bleeding the brakes - Can someone comment on the benefits of using the Speedbleeders? I am thinking about purchasing the fittings but am unsure about their usefulness and whether to purchase the recommended shorter Yamaha length fittings (SB8125) or go with the slightly longer Honda length fittings (SB8125L). (See website: http://www.speedbleeder.com/size.htm )
