Do you think that Elizabeth had a partlet in the 1547 portrait? I can't tell
from the images I have. If she does it must have been majorly transparent.
I found a fabric that is almost the same color of the fabric in the
portrait, down to the overall pattern. I couldn't remember what the sleeves
looked like so I didn't buy the sleeve fabrics. I printed the image I have
and everything turned out VERY pink. I found a better image and can see the
true colors now. I know the gown will be work but well worth it if it looks
the way it should.
I took a class in textiles where we studied ancient fabrics. It covered
Peruvian, Chinese/Japanese and others. One fabric in the Japanese files that
I remember had the metallic threads in loops. We covered how to make the
same effect nowadays. It would be a lot of extra work so I plan to find a
fabric that looks similar instead.
I feel very confident I can make the dress in the portrait or a very close
facsimile.
I foudn the pattern for the bell shaped sleeves, even down to the holes at
the wrist. I'm looking for the source of those now. I should have written it
down and not just saved the image.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Abel, Cynthia" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 6:03 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
I've seen various reproductions of this portrait and Elizabeth's dress
is more crimson(red) than pink.
Try Period Costume for Stage and Screen 1500-1800 by Jean Hunnisett for
modern scale patterns for this ensemble. The probable faux undersleeves
and upper sleeve lining and underskirt or more likely, forepart, appear
to be a gold on gold brocade or cut velvet.
The bell, trumpet, or Anne Boleyn style oversleeves, began the 16th
century as simple long oversleeves and eventually oversleeve and
undersleeve/faux undersleeve components got more elaborate.
The bodice is probably the long V waist, with the gold, pearled and
jewelled girdle, covering the join(or hook and eye fastening) of bodice
to skirt.
To accurately make this costume is a lot of work.
I did a similar version with the changes needed to bring it up to the
1570's several years ago and it is a lot of work, even for the 24"
porcelain doll I made to create it for.
First make the shift. You have to make an exact squared neck that a bit
of it will appear or not, depending on the portrait you are copying. I
made mine of fine cotton as a linen to the scale of the doll couldn't be
bought to the limited quantity I needed for a fine linen. The shift was
about knee length. Not sure of the white undersleeve construction and I
was doing an 1570's, not super wide below the elbow 1540-1560 version, I
did the shift sleeves cut wider at the top than a "normal" shift sleeve
and much wider at the bottom, gathering each bottom into a cuff with
drawstrings, not elastic.
Next was the stays(or corset). My doll was cloth-bodied and firmly
stuffed, but I made it complete with stiffining thin doll-scale
synthetic horsehair in channels, and handmade sewn eyelets for back
lacing and shoulder strap closure. Well worth the work, as seven years
later, the stuffing in this area has not dropped or settled. Stays
helped the body fight aging and gravity.
Somewhat easier to make for the doll was the hip pad and farthingale. I
used a linen for both and using Hunnisett's pattern, cheated by sewing
double folded bias binding along the marked lines all around in six
graduated layers(think of a 19th hoopskirt) to make channels. I used
more doll scale narrow horsehair inseted in the channels.
I made undersleeves of a pink brocade and a matching forepart. Instead
of authentically pinning each in place, I sewed the undersleeves to
narrow silk ribbons that were tacked in place on the shift sleeves. I
had to engineer this after I did the sleeves on the main gown. Fussy
work and probably not authentic, but it was a competition doll and
pining all into place would have looked as if I didn't have time to sew
it. The forepart I hem stitched to the farthingale--it was just a little
larger than the main gown's overskirt opening and had to be cut to its
final measurement and installed after I had finished the main gown.
Main gown of bodice, oversleeves, shoulder wings, and overskirt was
lined and sewn together as one piece, again for competition. Back
fastened with hand-sewn eyelets.
A partlet, figure-8 ruff and French hood finished the look, along with
handmade shoes and feather fan. Purchased stockings were faux fastened
with cross-gartered silk ribbons.
Hope this helps.
Cindy Abel
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Becky
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 3:25 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
My daughter has chosen the portrait of young Princess Elizabeth for her
costume. It is the pink one, Flemish School 1546-1547.
Can anyone tell me what colors the sleeves and the front panel are? They
seem very pink to me. http://www.sapphireandsage.com/necklaces.html
I can't tell if it has a round or pointed bodices. What do you call
these kind of sleeves. Any suggestions of how to make of pattern for the
sleeves? I found several sites that had sleeve variations but none like
these.
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