Hello,
I think Alcega's cassock is a different creature than the sailors
cassock. There are a few different article of clothing that use this name,
and they differ greatly. Priests wear a long gown that goes by that name,
in the 17th century there is an overcoat that is called this. Actually the
overcoat ios similar to what i am dexcribing, except it is longer. I am not
sure if there are any patternn readily available out there, but it is a
rather easy garment to construct. Not sure how to verbally descrip it
though! It is very similiar to a period shirt, and can be made with fouir
or five pieces, To sleeves cut as long rectangles , with a vurve on the top
to fit into the armscye. A front an back cut almost the same (you might
angle the neck openng a little higher in back than in the front, and there
need to be a least a neck slit ion front). The front and back should be cut
with a slight slope at the shoulders (unlike shirts). I would also curve
the armscye, as with modern garments or with doublets and things, again
differnty from a period shirt. The side seams shoud slope out away from the
body to give the slightly belled shape seen in some of the pictures. I
would add a standing collar between an inch and three inches tall. The neck
opening can be just turned, or a facing can be used. I would clse it with
buttons, though I have seen ties used on modren reproductions. I would
personally make it of wool, though I have seen reproductions at Jamestown
settlement with ties. My favorite reproduction at knotwork buttons made
from hemp line! I have also seen these cassocks made with canvas, usually
cotton, though historically is should be linen of hemp. Thes were made with
the belief that they might have been constructed from sail cloth, a pratice
that is documentable for later periods.
You can leave the garment plain, or you can trim it. Theonly depictions
I have seen of trim on these was a Dutch map, that had various historic
explorers around the edges. All of them were depicted in these cassock,
which I think unlikely, officers are usually depicted dressed just like
landmen gentleman. I think on this map tha artist was using license to
makle it clear that they were mariners. Here the trim was apllied as you
would guards (around the edges of the body of the garment) and looked like
various embroidered or metallic as per their wealth. Like I say I think
there is a lot of license there, but I have "guarded" wool cassock with
simple wool lace or modernly tape. Makes it a little more interesting.
If you can find a pattern for a Elizabethan mandillion, this is a very
similiar creature. The mandillion buttons all the way down the sides and
sleeves which allows it to be worn in a few different ways depending on
warmth desired. They often have pockets as well. Though I have not seen
these features in sailor art (actually I might be wrong, I may have seen
pockets) the 17th century long cassock must certainly do this so I think it
is perfectly plausible that some might have. There is also a sleeved cloak
which is a similiar idea, but thatthe sleeves can actually be buttoned to
the body to convert a coat into a cape.
One last consideration. It is believed by many that these cassocks I am
describing, are actuually an outergarment (which the mandillions and 17th
century cassocks certainly are). If this is the case there should be a
doublet or at least a jerkin worn under it. This is still however a matter
of speculation (as of course is the pattern I described) as it is not clear
one way or the other from the art.
I have a very good source for the thrummed caps by the bye. I have two
sources, but their better one is far quicker to deliver and far less
expensive than the other!
Ron Carnegie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kimiko Small" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, March 10, 2006 3:04 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] what do renaissance seamen look like?
At 04:17 PM 3/8/2006, you wrote:
Perhaps so, but it begins nearly a hundred years after the close of the
Elizabethan era.
Sailors of the Elizabethan period, based on period art wear loose
venetians or what willlater be called slops. Some are shown closed at
the bottom some are not. The upper body garments tend to be either close
fitting doublets, or a loose smock sort of jacket referred to in the
period as a cassock. The real obvious indicator of a sailor is the cap.
The most notable ones being thrummed caps. Thrummed caps look in art
like fur. They are made from strands of woll (thrum) being afixed
through the weave of kit caps, not unlike the modern watch cap.
Good art does exist out there. A number of Dutch maps shows mariner
figures as does the Mariner's Mirror. Actually the Dutch version and the
English version depict some different figures. I think it is just after
the period, but there are the woodcuts of the BArents expeditions as
well. Some art survivies depicting one of Frobisher's trips as well.
There is also the image depicted in Vecellios that was earlier mentioned.
Ron Carnegie
Hello Ron
Thank you for your explanation. I was looking at the Vecellio's woodcut
that Suzi mentioned, and couldn't figure out what was going on until I
read your info. I know Alcega has a pattern for the cassock, although I
don't know if it is the same or similar, but I will look it up. And the
thrummed cap gave me a lot to google for (I now understand how to thrum a
knitted mitt).
I've found a color image of the Mariner's Mirror, then realized I have a
B/W copy in one of my books, which is great since the color image is
rather small, so details are not really there. The Barents expedition is
1596, so it is period. I just found a decent image online of one of the
images. The other one with the polar bear wasn't so clear. It looks like I
will have to hunt around some more, but you've given me some great leads.
Thank you,
Kimiko
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