I've read the books from Janet Arnold or Noran Waugh or others, they are a good 
help, but not what I'm looking for. The thing that interests me is exactly how 
to draft the pattern with the help of a certain drafting "system" (I don't know 
how to call it). You make a net with the help of the measurements and out of it 
you make the pattern. It is usual that you make a "basic" pattern and then 
modify it to the pattern you want by for ex. relocating the seams, increasing 
or decreasing their widths etc. The thing I can never figure out is how much do 
they add to the waist/bust circumference, how do they make the seams and so on. 
If you know these "Rundschau" magazines from Germany, then you know what I 
mean. They sometimes even have a chapter on making historical costumes, and 
it's not so bad. They use the principe of their drafting system (modern 
principe), which is for me very understanable, but they modify the pattern so 
well that it really looks period - right placement of
 seams and such things. For example today is the shoulder seam right on the top 
of the shoulder, but in the 19th century (not only) it's mostly drifted a bit 
towards the back. 
  I've thought if something like this exists in a book form, including not only 
patterns from the 19th century, but also from the earlier centuries. I know in 
medieval times they didn't have any of such systems and they fitted the pattern 
directly on the body, but I'm sure there is a way to make such a pattern on the 
paper, cut it out, sew it and then try how it fits. I know a corset-formed body 
would have another proportions than a normal body and the pattern for a gown 
worn over it would have perhaps different rules of construction then we use 
today.
  I think some of you got it right, many thanks for the links lavoltapress and 
books by R.L.Shep. I guess these books use drafting systems which were used in 
the period they're on. Better for me would be books using modern drafting 
systems, but the construction as period as possible. 
  Please tell me if I can find something like that in the books (or links, if 
you want:-)) mentioned, and if someone knows a books concerning earlier 
centuries than 19th, let me know:-))
   
  Zuzana

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