Make up a fitting corset out of inexpensive but heavy & non-stretch fabric.
(You may want to mine the $1/yd table at walmart, or your local equivalent.)
For fitting purposes, you only need one bone per side at the front, side,
and back; front-side and back-side bones can be added to combat wrinkles on
larger figures. Since the fit of the busk pocket at front and the lacing
strips in the rear won't change, go ahead and make those with your real
corset fabric, and baste them to the fitting corset. Then, each element of
the fitting corset will be useful for the real corset: the fitting corset
itself will become the pattern, and the busk and laces sections will go into
the real corset. If you make corsets often, you may want to make and save a
re-useable busk and laces set.
Sew the fitting corset by machine; use a long stitch length, and a tension
loose enough that it will be relatively easy to pick out the stitches, but
use a strong thread (such as hand quilting thread). To simulate the fit of
a garment with finished seams, clip all seam allowances at the curves, then
push the seam allowances to one side and topstitch. This sort of
construction won't be up to long term use, but it will definitely be enough
for the fitting process.
While you have the fitting corset on, you might want to take the opportunity
to mark where the bones should go. (Only do this after you are satisfied
with the fit of the corset!) Even with the few bones you've put into the
fitting corset, you'll probably find that they're not in quite the right
spot; you can tell this if it feels like the bones twist slightly, rather
than laying flat along your body. This is especially problematic with the
side-front bones of a straight-front! To mark where the bones should go, get
a roll of tape about 3/4" to 1" wide. The wideness of the tape helps avoid
errors; if you can get something that wide to lay flat, then the much
narrower bone channels certainly will. Cut a piece of tape long enough for
a bone channel, and while wearing the corset, lay it where you think the
bone channel should be. I find it helps to affix the tape first at the
waist, then smooth it up and down; it gives you the best control of where
the channel will wind up.
-E House
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