I just made a French hood and to my eyes, the dark spot (#3) is where the
back veil, (in this case a shaped bag), in attaching to the hood, hangs
free. I have seen people sew the veil all around and have also seen the back
left loose, as appears to be the case here. I see what appear to be gathers
at the back nape of the bag, which makes sense if it is the type not sewn
all the way around.

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of E House
Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2006 3:42 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] 1520s french headwear--fresh eyes needed


I'm working on a replica of the headress worn by Princess Charlotte in this
Clouet painting (1522):
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1522clouet-charlotte-de-fra.jpg
After much experimentation, I've come up with a pattern I'm reasonably happy
with, but I just cannot make up my mind on a few points.  If you'll look at
this closeup:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1522clouet-charlotte-detail.jpg
you should be able to see each of them.  

Issue 1: Those slashes
The closeup shows each slash with a sort of outline around it, as though
each slash were bound with strips of the same fabric the hat's made of, sort
of like a bound buttonhole.  It seems to me faintly unlikely that they'd go
to this much trouble, and I certainly don't want to, but that's the only way
I can think of to get that same exact look.  The only other options that
come to mind are either a) just slash , and let it fray if it will--not too
terrible an option, since the luscious heavy silk sateen I have for this is
not at all prone to raveling drooldroolbragbrag--or, b) fold back a teeny
hem for each slash, and stitch them into place.  Ideas? Suggestions?

Issue 2: What should the back look like? 
If you look at the bottom diagonal slash of the bag-like portion, on the
other side of the circumference seam it looks a bit like there's a slash on
the back that mirrors it.  Does anyone else see it?  I'm thinking I may just
mirror those diagonal slashes around the edge of the back, and leave the
center of the back plain, or perhaps decorate the center with pearls.  (Yes,
I have a ton of glass pearls for the project.  This will be one heavy bit of
headwear!)  I'd love any clever suggestions, though, as I haven't found any
great backview shots of this style of headress yet.

Issue 3: that blackish semi-circle at the nape of the neck
This looks almost like a painter's mistake, or as though the paint has
started to flake off to reveal a previous version, or some wierd aborted
restoration attempt, or I don't know what; whatever it is, my instinct is
that it's not really a part of the headwear.  If it were a part of the
headwear, the only things I can think of would be a) a poor rendering of the
bag's interior, seen in shadow (but I give Clouet way more credit than
that!) or b) a netting of some sort.  Any ideas as to what on earth it could
be?  Anyone know more about the history of this painting than I do (ie, more
than nothing)?

-E House
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