On Mon, 25 Dec 2006, MaggiRos wrote, regarding http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1475-80ValeriusMaximus.jpg
> Is that really a pleated ruffle at the bottom of the undergown? This subject has come up before, as these wide hem-band-things are not an uncommon feature in 15th c. art. What they are is up for speculation. Among the possibilities: -- a fur section (very clearly so in some images, clearly not in others, ambiguous in some, including this one). -- an add-on, either gathered or pleated or flared/curved in such a way as to fall in folds. This might be purely decorative (maybe mimicking the style of the more expensive fur band); it might be a feature designed from the start as something that can be easily replaced once the hem is trashed from wear; or it might be such a replacement. -- a large horizontal tuck taken at about knee level in a very long flared skirt. The presumed point of such a tuck would be to store excess length, so that the dress could be let down in future (e.g. for more formal wear, or if the hem wears out). When you make the tuck, the lower part will be wider than the upper part at the point of joining, so the lower part has to be pleated or gathered to fit into place. -- an overlay added at knee height, perhaps to create fullness or add protection to the skirt. -- [insert your hypothesis here]. --Robin _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
