I can't recall who, but I seem to remember someone asking what the
structure inside 16th-century hats was. I came across a reference to
a felt understructure today in the accounts of Robert Dudley
(Leicester) from 1559-61:
Item for making a chrymissin velvet cap for Sir Henry Sydney’s son &
a band of copper sylver & a fether & trymyng it with buttons vijs. vjd.
Item for cuttyng out and makyng his hatt ymbrothered with sylver &
for felt lynyng and underturfs to ytt vs.
(translation:
Item, for making a crimson velvet cap for Sir Henry Sydney’s son and
a band of copper silver and a feather and trimming it with buttons 7
shillings, 6 pence.
Item, for cutting out and making his hat embroidered with silver and
for felt lining and underturfs to it 5 shillings.)
The underturf was, I think, the fabric facing on the underside of the
brim. The wording of the entry could also mean that the underturf is
the brim structure, made of felt the same as the lining.
Melanie Schuessler_______________________________________________
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