(Sorry for the cross-post) I'm out of my design league and could really use some help from anyone who has worked in the 1880s era.
I'm making a gown for my 16-year old daughter for a ball in March. After looking through all my books, she has chosen one from "Victorian and Edwardian Fashions from 'La Mode Illustree' ", edited by J. Olian (Dover). "Her" dress is the first one on page 60, an elegant ball gown from 1880. Unfortunately, the legend only says that it's made of satin, no more info. First, I'm a bit concerned about whether the dress will flatter her or not. She's 5' nothing and curvy. She's in proportion but weighs 125-130, so she's kinda built along the lines of Jennifer Rabbit only not so tall. Should I try to guide her away from this style and suggest more bustle, from maybe 1875 instead? I first thought of making the bustle a bit wider but maybe the thinness of this bustle dress is a good thing for my girl, to lengthen and slenderize. Yes? No? Her initial criteria: it has to be dark blue, it has to have a train, it has to rustle, it has to be beautiful. No pressure, Mom. Normally, I'll keep a picture of the design near me for several days so I can dream on it and kind of work out the kinks before I purchase anything, but time is tight. I'm going to Costume College and will have a day for shopping in the fabric district before I have to come home to the real world of work and family. While I'm in LA I can pick up the fabric and maybe even the trim, but I haven't any idea of how much material that dress will require. She may only wear this dress a couple times, so I'm going to go with a changeable poly taffeta rather than silk. I usually buy 10 yards minimum, but I haven't a clue how much that skirt might require. I'm guessing 2 for the bodice, another 2 for the underskirt, but where do I go from there? Is 10 yards enough or will I need more? Too much? Do you think there are two dark colors in this dress or only one? I'll probably trim/contrast with black if two colors. So there's not too much contrast. I'll use a heavy, twice-worked lace to reproduce that embroidery on the edges. And the yards and yards of lighter laces on the dress, both dark and light. How can one gauge - from a picture - how much to buy? I'm already working on Laughing Moon's corset pattern for her and I'll get the bustle pattern from Truly Victorian while I'm at College. I've made one of each of their two bustles and they work wonderfully, but my size is too big for Terry. I'll probably go to TV for the bodice and skirt patterns too because I don't feel comfortable draping yet, but I'd sure like any suggestions or help you can give me. I've done several Elizabethan outfits and several more 1840s-60s but never anything so late – even though I have plans to make one for myself. I swear I'm not asking for you to make the darned thing, but it's overwhelming me right now with the many things I don't know about this style. Thanks for any help you can toss my way, LynnD _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
