Hi, Lynn, well, the dark blue and rustle part is easy--- Blue/black
changeable taffeta! I don't have the book, what will it look like?
Sharon

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Lynn Downward
Sent: Friday, July 27, 2007 1:40 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] 1880 Ball Gown

(Sorry for the cross-post)  I'm out of my design league and could really use
some help from anyone who has worked in the 1880s era.

I'm making a gown for my 16-year old daughter for a ball in March.
After looking through all my books, she has chosen one from "Victorian and
Edwardian Fashions from 'La Mode Illustree' ", edited by J. Olian (Dover).
"Her" dress is the first one on page 60, an elegant ball gown from 1880.
Unfortunately, the legend only says that it's made of satin, no more info.
First, I'm a bit concerned about whether the dress will flatter her or not.
She's 5' nothing and curvy. She's in proportion but weighs 125-130, so she's
kinda built along the lines of Jennifer Rabbit only not so tall. Should I
try to guide her away from this style and suggest more bustle, from maybe
1875 instead?

I first thought of making the bustle a bit wider but maybe the thinness of
this bustle dress is a good thing for my girl, to lengthen and slenderize.
Yes? No?

Her initial criteria: it has to be dark blue, it has to have a train, it has
to rustle, it has to be beautiful. No pressure, Mom.

Normally, I'll keep a picture of the design near me for several days so I
can dream on it and kind of work out the kinks before I purchase anything,
but time is tight. I'm going to Costume College and will have a day for
shopping in the fabric district before I have to come home to the real world
of work and family. While I'm in LA I can pick up the fabric and maybe even
the trim, but I haven't any idea of how much material that dress will
require. She may only wear this dress a couple times, so I'm going to go
with a changeable poly taffeta rather than silk. I usually buy 10 yards
minimum, but I haven't a clue how much that skirt might require. I'm
guessing 2 for the bodice, another
2 for the underskirt, but where do I go from there? Is 10 yards enough or
will I need more? Too much? Do you think there are two dark colors in this
dress or only one? I'll probably trim/contrast with black if two colors. So
there's not too much contrast. I'll use a heavy, twice-worked lace to
reproduce that embroidery on the edges. And the yards and yards of lighter
laces on the dress, both dark and light.
How can one gauge - from a picture - how much to buy?

I'm already working on Laughing Moon's corset pattern for her and I'll get
the bustle pattern from Truly Victorian while I'm at College. I've made one
of each of their two bustles and they work wonderfully, but my size is too
big for Terry. I'll probably go to TV for the bodice and skirt patterns too
because I don't feel comfortable draping yet, but I'd sure like any
suggestions or help you can give me. I've done several Elizabethan outfits
and several more 1840s-60s but never anything so late - even though I have
plans to make one for myself.

I swear I'm not asking for you to make the darned thing, but it's
overwhelming me right now with the many things I don't know about this
style.

Thanks for any help you can toss my way,

LynnD
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