Heather: "In addition to the battle-for-the-pants genre, there are other images 
 
commonly circulated in the historic costuming community as evidence  
for medieval women wearing underpants that -- when examined more  
closely -- are using the underpants as a symbol or representation of  
women cross-dressing as men.  A typical example is an illustration  
from an edition of Boccaccio's "Concerning Famous Women" (De Claris  
Mulieribus) for the tale of Queen Semiramis who -- among other things  
-- was notorious for having ruled disguised as a man."

Yes, this was one of the two pictures, someone pointed it out here 
(http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/library/Semiramis.gif) as well. So, 
one half is explained! I'm still waiting for the reply from my friend to tell 
me where the other picture was from. 
But your "gender battle" theory is very interesting, did you ever write an 
article or anything like that about it? I'd long to get some more detailed 
information:-)

Heather: "When this topic gets discussed on costuming lists, you often see a  
lot of "argument from personal comfort level".  As students of  
historic costume, I think we need to be very skeptical of the idea  
that logical argument and "what feels comfortable/appropriate to me"  
can lead us to an accurate understanding of what people in other  
cultures and other time periods wore."

It is surely interesting to think logically about such a problem, but, just as 
you say, we can never rely on it, and, as we all know, people didn't always act 
very logically and didn't choose the most comfortable garments they could. 
Think of all those corsets and hoop petticoats and cage crinolines - the latest 
being worn even by lower-class working women that would surely need a more 
practical dress than the bourgeoise and nobility.

This picture:

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Les_Tr%C3%A8s_Riches_Heures_du_duc_de_Berry_f%C3%A9vrier.jpg
was in my friend's work as well, but he was talking about two sorts of 
chausses: one knee-length, which correspond to this picture and are, I think, 
nothing very surprising, and one long, attached to the waist, the same sort as 
men wore. The second one was very questionable for me and that was the sort of 
chausses (or hose) I was talking about. No doubt they're good for warmth, but 
does any of you have any picture or text that tells us that such garment was 
(even rarely) used by women?__

Zuzana


       
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