> My students are designing a production of "Dracula" (1897) and are required
> to do research and designs for the costumes. There has been a lot of
> discussion of vest colors and appropriate coats for various occasions. I
> learned
> (Esquire Book of Men's Clothing, mostly) that the rule of thumb is white tie
> and vest with tails, black tie and vest with tux. A man in black tie and
> tails
> would be a servant ie butler or waiter. So my students have found a lot of
> research contrary to what my assumption was. I have seen pictures of white
> vest and black tie with tails, white vest and white tie with tuxedos, black
> vest and tie with tails on gentlemen who would never be mistaken for
> servants
> and all other permutations. The research they have found is secondary,
> meaning drawings from the period rather than actual photographs. Have I
> been wrong
> all these years? Also, it was my understanding that tuxedos were not
> considered proper in the presence of ladies. Tails were required for those
> occasions, although I do understand that this convention gradually faded
> away. Can
> someone elucidate me?
Check out Farid Chenoune's A History of Men's Fashion. I believe (but it's been
many years since I looked at this reasarch) that it's just around the turn of
the century (so 1897 counts :-) ) that the tux moved from informal wear to
being accecptable evening wear (although still not de rigeur for extreamly
formal occasions). I'd recomenend Sarah Levitt's Fashion in Photographs
1880-1900 for photos of all different levels of formality for both upper-class
English men and women.
Sorry, I'm not at home, so I can't access my library for the answers m'self :-S
Hope this helps!
-sunny
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