I think shantung is fewer slubs and finer ones than dupioni, but it is more densely wovern(more threads per inch), which would make the fabric heavier in weight
Cindy Abel -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Zuzana Kraemerova Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 10:00 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: RE: [h-cost] difference between douppioni and shantung Thanks very much!! If I understood right, shantung is 29mm and douppioni 19mm, which means that shantung is much heavier? This makes me a bit confused as from the definitions I understood that Shantung might be the finer (less slubs) = and lighter one? Chiara Francesca <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Good Morning Zuzana! Here is an excerpt of an article series that I recently started called "Straight from the Corset". I think it answers your question about silks. If you want to see the whole article let me know. :) Silk is measured by weight either by grams or by momme (mm). 28 grams = 1 ounce. 8 momme = 1 oz. In determining the right silk for your purposes, silk under 20 momme is considered lightweight, 20 to 28 is considered medium weight and anything above that is considered heavyweight. Shantung Once made from hand-reeled tussah silk, today's shantung is usually made with cultivated silk warp yarns and heavier douppioni filling yarns. Depending on the filling yarn, shantung may be lustrous or dull. It has a firm, semi-crisp hand and tends to ravel, so avoid close-fitting styles. It can be machine washed on gentle and dried on low. 29 mm Douppioni Douppioni is a plain-weave fabric with slubbed ribs. It has a stiff, taffeta-like hand and is usually dyed in bright colors. Douppioni is often made into elegant flowy gowns that are not fitted or for semi-fitted doublets and garments because the fabric doesn't stand up well to stress and ravels easily. Dry cleaning recommended. 19mm. For a detailed chart go to http://www.classactfabrics.com/silk/silk_fabric.htm For further reading go find: Mola, Luca. The Silk Industry in Renaissance Venice. Baltimore: The Johns Hopkins University Press. 2000. My source was the above book. :) Chiara Francesca -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Zuzana Kraemerova Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 9:19 AM To: h-costume Subject: [h-cost] difference between dupioni and shantung Hi everyone, I've spent the past few days searching on the internet and I've been asking as many people as I met and still can't get the difference between silk shantung and silk dupioni. I often ask my sister in China to buy me some shantung, but once she gets a very fine fabric with almost no slubs and another day she gets one with a rougher texture and more visible slubs. I didn't know how to call these two, so I started to search for such sorts of silk fabric that would match the two fabrics, and I got shantung and dupioni. But alas, sources say different definitions, one says the contrary of the other, leaving me really puzzled... Does anyone know something about that? Pictures are really welcome... --------------------------------- Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage. _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list [email protected] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list [email protected] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume --------------------------------- Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list [email protected] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list [email protected] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
