Thanks for all the help! I think I'll definitely go for the book about silks, it might also help me with giving a name to another fabric I don't know the name of.
I know exactly the possible mm of the fabrics in China, and the shantung or dupioni (Chinese call it shuan-gong, which is probably shantung) has 19 to 22mm. But it's usually 19. I called it shantung till someone told me it's dupioni, and from then on I was unsure about the name. My sister'll arrive for Christmas, so we can talk things over and I'm sure we'll solve that mystery... The two fabrics I've got at home are both like a softer taffeta, one is a bit more uneven than the other and has less slubs, but they both weight the same. The more uneven one looks like this and the other like this. Could these two be douppioni? Then my sister once brought from China something looking similar to the second fabric (less slubs), but finer,thinner, more tightly woven, and not really ressembling taffeta, it was heavier and "flowier". This might have been the shantung...? Zuzana Chiara Francesca <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: I do understand where you all are coming from Suzi but please realize that unlike European countries the US no longer has a silk mass producer that I know of, there may be small runs of it for specialty markets. Kimiko, correct me if I am wrong, you would know that better than I. All of our silk comes from overseas. All the ones I see have India stamped on the bolt ends. For the finer silks however there is a bridal shop here that we all hit and their bolt ends have Japan or China stamped on them. I have never seen silk bolt ends with any other country's stamp on it. In the end, Zuzana, look for the weight. Since you are not there with your sister in China ask her to look at the weights and to look at the surface. If you can get the book of swatches that Kimiko recommends do it and send it to her asap or see if she can get one where she is at. If you have the fabric you want already, send her that swatch so that she can compare it. :) Chiara Francesca -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Suzi Clarke Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 2:36 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: RE: [h-cost] difference between douppioni and shantung At 17:16 14/12/2007, you wrote: >Dupioni is the lighter weight fabric, as it is a thin >even weave with the same or similar warp and weft >threads. Shantung ends up heavier, as it has weft >filler threads that thicken the fabric, giving it a >pronounced rib effect. It has fewer slubs because they >use a finer silk in the warp, but use thick and thin >dual threads similar to the dupioni as the rib weft. > >Some places consider them the same fabric type, but >they really are not. Dupioni is more like a slubby >taffeta in weight and weave, and in stiffness. >Shantung ... I can't say what it is similar to, but >not really similar to dupioni except for the >occasional slub roughness. > >Both fabrics do have issues with raveling a lot while >working with them. This may well be so in the U.S. but, like Bjarne, I have always understood shantung to be the finer fabric. In England, most dupion is not stiff like taffeta, but more inclined to be floppy. Shantung is a fabric used for shirts, blouses etc., like a finer dupion. They do both ravel like mad though. Like I say, that is what I understand to be the U.K. comparisons. Suzi >Kimiko > > >--- Zuzana Kraemerova wrote: > > > Thanks very much!! > > > > If I understood right, shantung is 29mm and > > douppioni 19mm, which means that shantung is much > > heavier? This makes me a bit confused as from the > > definitions I understood that Shantung might be the > > finer (less slubs) = and lighter one? > > > > >___________________________________________________________________________ _________ >Looking for last minute shopping deals? >Find them fast with Yahoo! >Search. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping >_______________________________________________ >h-costume mailing list >[email protected] >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list [email protected] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list [email protected] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume --------------------------------- Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list [email protected] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
