In a message dated 3/25/2008 5:41:20 PM Pacific Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

I  haven't seen anything extant that looks like the PI Tea Bodice, but I've  
hardly seen every surviving original garment from that time period.  My  own 
experience with that pattern line is that they are basically modified  modern 
patterns--the shoulder line, armscye, side seams, and back construction  are 
not consistent with the cut of garments from the time periods they are  
attempting to portray, so I don't use this particular line.  I suppose it  
depends on 
if you're looking for a costume or want to make a reproduction  that's 
consistent with extant clothing examples.   If you want to  make a costume, it 
doesn't really matter.  If you want a reproduction  piece consistent with the 
cut 
and tailoring of the time period, you won't get  it from this pattern.



I second LuAnn's comment and would further add that if you are serious  about 
constructing a dress like this, you are better off drafting the pattern  from 
Patterns of Fashion 2 than using the Period Impressions.  The Period  
Impressions pattern is NOT copied line for line from the one in the book.   Be 
prepared, because a properly made reproduction isn't going to be cheap  and its 
a 
style that isn't highly common or appropriate for all  situations.  The 
original 
the pattern draft in the book was taken from is  silk, and one which would 
have been expensive even in its time, and IIRC the  dress is fully lined in 
silk 
as well.  There isn't really much of a way  around it--its a high fashion 
garment, made out of high end fabric, worn by a  woman who had the means to 
wear 
such things.
 
If you're willing to devote the time, money, and patience to recreating  this 
dress as it really should be, it would be kinda cool to see at some sort of  
indoor living history event if your impression is of a wealthy upper class 
lady  who regularly wears expensive, trendy clothing.  If, however, the draw to 
 
it is the trim emulating a jacket and you want a dress for at a battle  
reenactment, IMO you would be better served in making a dress of a lightweight  
(i.e. tropical weight, challis) wool dress with a regular high neckline and  
trimming it to look like there's a jacket.  The postillion back  wouldn't be 
inappropriate here, either.  This shows up in fashion plates,  but more 
importantly, 
you see it in CDVs and original garments.  That  would more common than the 
Watteau necked bodice in POF2, and would be more  serviceable for event wear, 
especially out of the lightweight wool depending on  what region of the country 
you're from.
 
The Period Impressions #403 is seen en masse at most events around the  
country, and 9.5 times out of 10 out of a cotton calico fabric.  Frankly,  they 
just look wrong to a trained eye because the style is taken out of its  context 
and made in the wrong fabric off a poorly drafted pattern and its being  worn 
in the wrong setting.  And to be more to the point, cotton doesn't  drape and 
fit a figure like a period silk would.  So like I said, if you  spend the money 
to make it out of silk, it would be downright gorgeous to see if  all of the 
variables fit to your impression.  But the style doesn't lend  itself to 
battle reenactments and after the investment you'd put into it you  probably 
wouldn't want to, either.
 
Just my $.02,
Joseph



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