Until recently I had thought that the figure-of-eight ruffs were never
stitched to hold the shape, but last week I found a portrait in a
current Sotherby's catalogue for a sale of Old Master and early British
paintings.
This is the link to the catalogue:
http://www.sothebys.com/app/paddleReg/paddlereg.do?dispatch=eventDetails
&event_id=29138

and the particular painting is:
http://www.sothebys.com/app/live/lot/LotDetail.jsp?lot_id=159527660

The ruff is formed with a lattice effect, intersecting 4 times, and
there is a pearl at every intersection, with a group of 3 pearls at the
top and bottom edge. I think the pearls are stitched on, rather than
representing pin-heads, especially given the groups of pearls at top and
bottom. It would be a nightmare to reset after washing.

I have never seen anything similar - has anyone else?
Suzi, is this similar to the one you referred to.

Needless to say I have downloaded it for future reference.

Annette Wilson 

-------------------------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Thu, 09 Apr 2009 20:39:41 +0200
From: Hanna Zickermann <[email protected]>
Subject: [h-cost] Stitching on ruffs
To: Historical Costume <[email protected]>
Message-ID: <[email protected]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

Hello,

has anyone ever seen a ruff that really had the stitching along the
outer edge to keep the "8"s in shape? "Period Costume for Stage and
Screen" even suggests embellishing the ruff with beads on top of these
stitches, but I feel they are just a theatrical neccessity as the ruffs
are not properly starched and must keep their shapes in nylon material.
Or is there evidence that these stitches would have been used as a
decorative feature as well and that they are documentable?

Thank you,
Hanna



------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Thu, 09 Apr 2009 19:55:26 +0100
From: Suzi Clarke <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Stitching on ruffs
To: Historical Costume <[email protected]>
Message-ID: <[email protected]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

At 19:39 09/04/2009, you wrote:
>Hello,
>
>has anyone ever seen a ruff that really had the stitching along the 
>outer edge to keep the "8"s in shape? "Period Costume for Stage and 
>Screen" even suggests embellishing the ruff with beads on top of these 
>stitches, but I feel they are just a theatrical neccessity as the ruffs

>are not properly starched and must keep their shapes in nylon material.
>Or is there evidence that these stitches would have been used as a 
>decorative feature as well and that they are documentable?

I have seen pictures of ruffs where the "8"s are apparently held
together, probably with wax (see Janet Arnold). I am sure I also have a
photo of a ruff held with red beads - I'll have to go and look for that
though - my library is not next to the computer!

Suzi





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