Well, it sounds as though you all have run into enough evidence of sewn gathers on chemise necklines, for my idea of the chemise in the image being sewn gathers to be correct. Did that statement make any sense?
So, I'm thinking that I'll go with the sewn gathers, though getting them sized right may be a bit tricky. Of course, worse come to worse, I can always fall back on an old theatre costume trick to adjust the fit - catch-stitching over elastic on the inside - not period but not visible, so if necessary... Pattern-wise, I'm leaning towards the pattern shown on both of these links. It should be close enough to the chemise in the image that started all this, at least for my purposes. If I were going to produce my own fiber, spin and weave it, I'd be more concerned about exactly how the image chemise was made, but this will do. http://www.elizabethancostume.net/cheminst.html http://www.reddawn.net/costume/chemise.htm http://exhibits.denverartmuseum.org/artisansandkings/?page_id=23 Any other thoughts on the pattern most welcome. Laurie T. -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Carol Kocian Sent: Monday, October 11, 2010 9:57 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Chemise pattern On Oct 11, 2010, at 6:10 AM, Kate Bunting wrote: > Laurie T wrote: > >> The chemise in the painting seems unlikely to have a drawstring >> neckline. >> Any thoughts on this? > > We discussed drawstrings on shifts/chemises a few years ago, and > the consensus was that before the 18th century they all had sewn > gathers round the neck and wrists. > > I recently heard a talk by Stuart Peachey, the British expert on > the 17th century, and asked him a question about this. He confirmed > the above statement. > > Kate Bunting > Librarian & 17th century reenactor. Not much in the way of drawstrings in the 18thC, either. There are a few cases of a drawstring to snug up or hold the shape of a neckline, but not for controlling mass quantities of fabric. Shift sleeves were gathered into cuffs that buttoned and sometimes had a ruffle added.. Some decades had volume in the sleeves, others had less volume when the gown sleeves fit closely. I think the 1960s/70s "peasant" look made us believe drawstrings were all over the place. -Carol _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list [email protected] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list [email protected] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
