Wow!  Not only did you answer my question, but you actually managed to send
me a link to a web page that I had not seen before - funny considering that
I am familiar with Festive Attyre, but just missed that chemise page!
That's practically an early X-mas present!

I agree completely about the 'gathering' looking like very fine cartridge
pleating.  It will be a test of my stitching patience, but I love the look.

Yes, the softer and lighter the fabric, the better my odds for success.
I'll try my cotton first, just as a practice run and because it is here and
ready.  After that...time to shop I suppose.

Thank you so much for your response.  With everything that everyone has
offered up in the way of links and ideas, I'm comfortable finally with
getting this chemise started and finished.

Laurie T.




-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of cw15147-hcos...@yahoo.com
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2010 12:08 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Chemise pattern

As I recall, the general consensus is that this raglan-style is not
supported by 
current research. If you want a more documentable pattern, go with this one:

<http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/chemise.html>

As her notes say, this pattern was taken from the book "Cut My Cote" which
(as I 
recall) itself took the pattern from a surviving garment. People have used
this 
pattern for years, and I would say it does result in a garment that looks a
lot 
like your example painting.

Refer also to Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 4 for tips on how to
accomplish 
the gathering. Gathering, back in their day, is a lot more like super-fine 
cartridge pleating. That's really just how it turns out when you do
gathering 
stitches by hand (it doesn't have to, but it sure looks good that way).

I think you mentioned that you have fabric, but I will note: to best
approximate 
this look, you'll benefit from fabric with a super soft hand. This:

<http://www.renaissancefabrics.net/cgi-bin/showAll.cgi?id=286&category=Cotto
n%20Fabric&fabric=53>


might do the job. A pure silk voile might even be better, but I don't know
where 
to find such fabric.



Claudine




----- Original Message ----
> From: Laurie Taylor <costume...@mazarineblue.com>
> To: Historical Costume <h-cost...@indra.com>
> Sent: Mon, October 11, 2010 11:53:55 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Chemise pattern
> 
<snipped>
> Pattern-wise, I'm leaning towards the  pattern shown on both of these
links.
> It should be close enough to the  chemise in the image that started all
this,
> at least for my purposes.   If I were going to produce my own fiber, spin
and
> weave it, I'd be more  concerned about exactly how the image chemise was
> made, but this will  do.
> 
> http://www.elizabethancostume.net/cheminst.html
> 
> http://www.reddawn.net/costume/chemise.htm
> 
> http://exhibits.denverartmuseum.org/artisansandkings/?page_id=23
> 
> Any  other thoughts on the pattern most welcome.
> 
> Laurie  T.
> 
<snipped>

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