Hey Gang, For those that do not know of this lantern, I believe you are going to be impressed.
The company is called Britelyt And can be found here http://www.britelyt.com/ - lots more to read over there and worth the read. 500CP Lantern output in BTU's approx: 9,500 to 11,000 per hour Lantern, without heating adapter will heat a 20' x 20' area) with our heating unit only. Lantern, with heating adapter, will heat a 20' x 20' area - output of 9,500 to approx. 20,500 btu's per hour. They also have a stove adapter or stand alone They burn "any" fuel JO -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of lance95 Sent: Monday, May 11, 2009 5:32 PM To: hexayurt Subject: [hexayurt] Re: Heating a hexayurt Thanks to all who have responded. Obviously, if one has sufficient resources, one can simply buy a fully equipped retreat that is complete with provisions. But I’m choosing to focus upon an average, North American citizen who may have to abandon his or her home in the middle of the night-- possibly with children and pets. In gentle climates, one needs little more than a tarp and a wool blanket for protection against the elements. But when the temperatures drop and the snow begins to fly, a good warm shelter is of paramount importance. This is especially true for the very young and old, along with those who are either sick or injured. The northern latitudes can be very cruel in the winter. The hexayurt has a lot going for it, but the basic units have to be heated in the winter. And at this juncture, I’m not sure how to do that. That causes me to, once again, look at yurts/ gers. I’m speaking of the convention kinds. Some nice ones can be bought from a number of sources. And they are both beautiful and functional—often complete with electricity, plumbing and woodstove. But those kinds of yurts probably aren’t going to be an option for the person who must evacuate in the middle of the night. So I’m looking for something that can be built with easily obtainable materials—such as odds and ends from local hardware stores, or salvaged from demolished buildings. One key part you need when building a yurt is a good “roof ring.” One of the major challenges is designing a “roof ring” that can easily be made from common materials. At one time, I had a decent home workshop that featured a good table-saw, circular saw, router and drill press. With those tools, I was able to do some pretty fancy work. Certainly, building a good, “roof ring” would have been a simple job. Now I have nothing but a couple of hand saws, a small saber saw and a portable drill. Most of the roof rings I have seen can’t be created as quickly and as easily as I would like. Yes……………personally, I could build one even with my paltry selection of tools, but I have the advantage of a lot of experience. A good friend of mine is endeavoring to design a new sort of “roof ring”, we shall see what he comes up with. Many of the experienced yurt people I have talked to concede that there’s a problem; unfortunately, they are vague about possible solutions. Please don’t misunderstand, I’m not looking for a personal solution. I have the time and resources to either buy or rent what I need to build a roof ring. Hell………….I can afford to buy a complete kit. That’s not the issue. What I want to do is to come up with solutions for others. As a final note, keep in mind that those who don’t own property might have to move their yurt/ger frequently. Anyway, there are a lot of issues to confront. Sincerely, Royce On May 11, 4:30 pm, "The Distinguished ..." <[email protected]> wrote: > Greetings, > > On Mon, 2009-05-11 at 11:24 -0700, lance95 wrote: > > This is my first day on this discussion board. And I want to thank > > everyone for the work that they have done. I am impressed. > > It is quite impressive. > > > I’m very interested in empowering myself and others to survive in a > > battered economy. I have, for the last couple of years, studied a wide > > range of options for those with only minimal resources. > > And, if you read some of the essays our Fearless Leader has put out, > there is lots of information on how to transport and build > minimal-resource infrastructure, starting with a shipping container full > of supplies, and ending with housing and a field-hospital. > > > I am very involved with alternative medical treatments, especially > > those associated with Qi Gong. I believe medical issues to be very > > important area since our quality of life depends largely on the state > > of our health. > > You might want to talk to Dr. Evan Hughes about such things, he has > several good talks about such balances. > > > My research suggests to me that one might be well advised to remember > > that threats to one’s plans to survive a calamity can arise from many > > sources, which include the federal, state and local governments. > > Indeed, although most of the focus here has been on disaster recovery, > theoretically with the support of the Federal, State and Local > governments, rather than in opposition to them. Most of the work, here > has been on temporary structures, rather than permanent ones, with the > exception of the co-op farm (search the archives for more information) > > > Consider the harassment that can come for simple vagrancy. > > Vagrancy is a whole other topic, that I'm not sure this is the correct > forum to focus on such within. Safer to talk engineering, rather than > causes. We all want these, for our various reasons, and when they > effect the design (as my reasons did) it makes sense, but ... if it is > outside the design reasons ... we should leave that to the business of > the private individual. > > > In regard to semi permanent shelters, I’m greatly interested in both > > the traditional yurt designs and the hexayurt. Has anyone extensively > > tested the hexayurt in cold climates where there is the possibility of > > heavy snowfalls? > > I have experience with both ger (yurt means village and ger means house) > and hexayurt designs. Last fall, I was experimenting with the Hexayurt > design, for winter storage (due to a sudden lack of my standard 12' > diameter, 5' high ger, because one of my friends needed to live in it > for the winter, his contractors royally screwed the building of his > house, and his "newly poured" foundation was crumbling within weeks of > it being poured) and found that the simulated snow-weight on the roof, > with the extra weight of the building materials (orient-strand board, > ledger-board, and flashing, basically) wasn't going to hold up to a New > England winter. So I erected a Pentayurt (well ... at the moment, just > the roof, up on cinder blocks, then it started snowing, the rest will be > going up as soon as I have time in the next several weeks) and the > pentayurt roof, with 2-foot cinder-block walls worked just fine, > structurally. In terms of living in it? I'd want to do a lot more to > it, to keep it warm, and habitable. It also survived winds that the > Thermax design might not have survived. A ger is also well-suited to > wind-swept snowy areas, the more the wind, the more the convection > pushes the yurt closer to the ground, as opposed to taking off with it, > like a circus tent. Ask some Pennsic Hurricane veterans about what > structures were standing and what structures were just gone. > > > And what about heating the hexayurt? Wood gasification stoves—forced > > air stoves—are fine for cooking out in the open, but the don’t meet > > the needs of someone cooking in a hexayurt that lacks some kind of a > > chimney. > > For my ger, that was lived in, up in northern Maine, there is the > outer-layer (canvas), a vapor barrier layer (tyvek attached to felt), > the khana, and then the inner wall layer (duralon (I believe that's the > name of it)). About 2 feet away from one of the walls was a pipe-hole, > surrounded by cement-board/insulating foam sandwich inset in the rafters > (and had things attached to it, to make an appropriate vapor barrier as > well) that the pellet-fed wood/cook stove was vented. We didn't really > have to worry about a snow-load, although the plug for the standard > ring-hole was a bit of a problem (not as tight a water-seal as he would > have liked, even though he insisted on being able to open it, all winter > long, because he liked the sky and the airflow through his house) but he > lived comfortably in it for the whole winter. > > I would _not_ have been comfortable putting the stove in either a wood > or an insulation-board Pentayurt. Too much structural dependency on the > setup, and not enough space to be able to safely separate the heat from > the stove, from the construction materials. Also, it might burn up too > much oxygen, and not leave enough for the residents. > > > I realize that there are archives. And I will try to access them. > > Possibly concerns such as mine have already been fully addressed. > > Much more is in the archives, it's well worth the look. > > > Thanks again. > > > Royce > > Percival --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "hexayurt" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/hexayurt?hl=en -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
