Steve, that sounds right. You point out the key issue: all exterior lines should remain untouched, full length of the original board (short side 4'; long side 8'; diagonal 8.944'). All bevels are cut on the interior sides of the panels.
You're right, you could cut the bevels the way you suggest, saving one cut per roof section. You are a braver man than me. Regarding cutting bevels: In case anyone is debating whether they want to do this, I was glad I did it. It takes quite some time, but it was worth it in the end. Nice tight fit on every joint. Method: I laid my panels, exterior side down, on top of a sheet of plywood that aligned exactly with the panel edge to be bevelled. I eyeball estimated the top cutaway measurement of the bevel (i.e. held my blade at what I eyeballed to be 15 degrees, and too much is better than not enough) then just ran the blade along the plywood edge. This worked well. As an important suggestion to others wanting to cut bevels, use a high quality box cutter blade, and keep them sharp. There is an excellent heavy duty knife made by Stanley® with the long snap away blades (I got mine at Home Creepo). The knife is big (about 10 inch, silver) and cost about 20 bucks, but as I was doing the work, I was thanking my lucky stars I wasn't trying to do it with a standard blade, or one of those cheap dollar store snap away blades. Hope this helps! - - - - ------Zippy---------> On Aug 3, 10:09 am, Steve Upstill <[email protected]> wrote: > That certainly clarifies things. Just to be certain I understand: > > * You do NOT bevel the original outside edge of the sheet-the longer ones. > Those will join into the vertical joint that forms a single roof triangle. > > * The shorter outside edges of the original sheets will be bevelled to join > with the walls. Different issue. > > * The diagonal on each original sheet gets bevelled. In all cases, the > OUTSIDE line (from the perspective of the finished yurt) is the original, > corner-to-corner diagonal line. The bevel is cut "in" from there. > > As a matter of interest, it seems to me that you can bevel when cutting the > original sheet. Then, bevel that in the opposite direction--from the same > side-- on the "larger" sheet. Instead of one straight cut and two bevel cuts, > you have two bevel cuts. > > Cheers, > Steve > > On Aug 3, 2010, at 9:02 AM, Zippy wrote: > > > > >> On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 4:21 PM, Steve Upstill <[email protected]> wrote: > > >>> I was thinking of just offsetting the line a bit to make them identical. > >>> Or am I being too anal? How worried should I be about that? > > > On Aug 3, 8:29 am, "Vinay Gupta (Hexayurt Shelter Project)" > > <[email protected]> wrote: > >> If you're cutting angles, you want to be anal about everything, > > > I agree. I was very anal about things being neat and perfect and > > things worked very nicely. Steve, there is no issue, the line doesn't > > need to be offset. If I understand you correctly, I think the > > confusion might come from you thinking that you are going to cut the > > bevels in one shot when you cut the 4x8 sheet on the diagonal. I > > wouldn't recommend that. The geometry doesn't work that way. > > > Cut your 4x8 sheet on the diagonal exactly down the middle, with no > > bevel (90 degrees from the plane surface). You now have two identical > > triangles. Flip one over and lay the two pieces on the ground with > > the angled sides that you want to join together adjacent to one > > another, with the underside of the roof facing up. Identical 15 > > degree bevels should be cut on these joining sides, being careful not > > to shave any material off the plane surface underneath (because this > > plane surface will be your roof top). > > > Once the bevels are cut, flip the ensemble over, and tape them > > together at the beveled seam. Your bevels will be invisible from this > > vantage point as they will be underneath. > > > Hopefully that makes sense? > > > -- > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > > "hexayurt" group. > > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > > [email protected]. > > For more options, visit this group > > athttp://groups.google.com/group/hexayurt?hl=en. > > -- > It is not that wars are always wrong. It is that wars are always wars, good > for destroying things that must be destroyed, as in 1864 or 1944, but useless > for doing anything more, and no good at all for doing cultural work: saving > the national honor, proving that we re not a second-rate power, avenging old > humiliations, demonstrating resolve, or any of the rest of the empty > vocabulary of self-improvement through mutual slaughter. > -- Adam Gopnik -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "hexayurt" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected]. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/hexayurt?hl=en.
