I guess this is just me, but I wasn't planning on beveling any of my edges. Admittedly I wont get a super tight fitting joint, but I'm not really worried about that.
It seems to me that I can get all the functionality of folding without actually needing to do the beveling. On 3 August 2010 13:59, Zippy <[email protected]> wrote: > Steve, that sounds right. You point out the key issue: all exterior > lines should remain untouched, full length of the original board > (short side 4'; long side 8'; diagonal 8.944'). All bevels are cut on > the interior sides of the panels. > > You're right, you could cut the bevels the way you suggest, saving one > cut per roof section. You are a braver man than me. > > Regarding cutting bevels: > > In case anyone is debating whether they want to do this, I was glad I > did it. It takes quite some time, but it was worth it in the end. Nice > tight fit on every joint. > > Method: > > I laid my panels, exterior side down, on top of a sheet of plywood > that aligned exactly with the panel edge to be bevelled. I eyeball > estimated the top cutaway measurement of the bevel (i.e. held my blade > at what I eyeballed to be 15 degrees, and too much is better than not > enough) then just ran the blade along the plywood edge. This worked > well. > > As an important suggestion to others wanting to cut bevels, use a high > quality box cutter blade, and keep them sharp. There is an excellent > heavy duty knife made by Stanley® with the long snap away blades (I > got mine at Home Creepo). The knife is big (about 10 inch, silver) > and cost about 20 bucks, but as I was doing the work, I was thanking > my lucky stars I wasn't trying to do it with a standard blade, or one > of those cheap dollar store snap away blades. > > Hope this helps! > > - - - - ------Zippy---------> > > On Aug 3, 10:09 am, Steve Upstill <[email protected]> wrote: > > That certainly clarifies things. Just to be certain I understand: > > > > * You do NOT bevel the original outside edge of the sheet-the longer > ones. Those will join into the vertical joint that forms a single roof > triangle. > > > > * The shorter outside edges of the original sheets will be bevelled to > join with the walls. Different issue. > > > > * The diagonal on each original sheet gets bevelled. In all cases, the > OUTSIDE line (from the perspective of the finished yurt) is the original, > corner-to-corner diagonal line. The bevel is cut "in" from there. > > > > As a matter of interest, it seems to me that you can bevel when cutting > the original sheet. Then, bevel that in the opposite direction--from the > same side-- on the "larger" sheet. Instead of one straight cut and two bevel > cuts, you have two bevel cuts. > > > > Cheers, > > Steve > > > > On Aug 3, 2010, at 9:02 AM, Zippy wrote: > > > > > > > > >> On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 4:21 PM, Steve Upstill <[email protected]> > wrote: > > > > >>> I was thinking of just offsetting the line a bit to make them > identical. Or am I being too anal? How worried should I be about that? > > > > > On Aug 3, 8:29 am, "Vinay Gupta (Hexayurt Shelter Project)" > > > <[email protected]> wrote: > > >> If you're cutting angles, you want to be anal about everything, > > > > > I agree. I was very anal about things being neat and perfect and > > > things worked very nicely. Steve, there is no issue, the line doesn't > > > need to be offset. If I understand you correctly, I think the > > > confusion might come from you thinking that you are going to cut the > > > bevels in one shot when you cut the 4x8 sheet on the diagonal. I > > > wouldn't recommend that. The geometry doesn't work that way. > > > > > Cut your 4x8 sheet on the diagonal exactly down the middle, with no > > > bevel (90 degrees from the plane surface). You now have two identical > > > triangles. Flip one over and lay the two pieces on the ground with > > > the angled sides that you want to join together adjacent to one > > > another, with the underside of the roof facing up. Identical 15 > > > degree bevels should be cut on these joining sides, being careful not > > > to shave any material off the plane surface underneath (because this > > > plane surface will be your roof top). > > > > > Once the bevels are cut, flip the ensemble over, and tape them > > > together at the beveled seam. Your bevels will be invisible from this > > > vantage point as they will be underneath. > > > > > Hopefully that makes sense? > > > > > -- > > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google > Groups "hexayurt" group. > > > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > > > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > [email protected]<hexayurt%[email protected]> > . > > > For more options, visit this group athttp:// > groups.google.com/group/hexayurt?hl=en. > > > > -- > > It is not that wars are always wrong. It is that wars are always wars, > good for destroying things that must be destroyed, as in 1864 or 1944, but > useless for doing anything more, and no good at all for doing cultural work: > saving the national honor, proving that we re not a second-rate power, > avenging old humiliations, demonstrating resolve, or any of the rest of the > empty vocabulary of self-improvement through mutual slaughter. > > -- Adam Gopnik > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "hexayurt" group. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > [email protected]<hexayurt%[email protected]> > . > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/hexayurt?hl=en. > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "hexayurt" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected]. 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