I built a stretch yurt for this year's Burning Man and in the process
came up with a few modifications. I mitered all connecting edges 30º
because I believe this provides the best structural strength. Mitered
edges distribute any outside pressure (e.g., wind) from the roof to
the walls to the ground and make for a sturdier unit. To cut the
miters I laid the panels on 2x4s set flat on my deck. I marked a line
3/4" from the edge and set the blade angle on my Skilsaw to 30º. This
gave me accurate miter cuts and the job took very little time.

I taped my yurt to fold into two wall units and a single roof unit.
This can be done even with mitered edges. The wall units fold the two
short end walls over one long wall, so all taping is done on the
outside. Only two walls need to be taped during assembly. The roof
unit folds the two long roof sections together on an inside tape
hinge, then one triangular roof section from each end folds over the
flattened roof. Only two of the triangular roof sections and the eve
of the long roof sections need to be taped during assembly. I taped
the inside of the roof eve after I had assembled the roof and had it
taped to the walls.

When I assembled the yurt before transport, I set it up on a tarp and
scribed the wall lines with a felt-tipped marker. I also marked where
my stakes would go so I could drive them through the tarp during set-
up. This saved me some time fiddling with the walls because I knew
exactly where they needed to go to square up the footprint.

I didn't like the idea of relying on a halo and/or guy lines to anchor
the yurt so I built gussets out of scrap roof flashing. Two gussets
rest on the ends of the roof eve line and four are placed where my tie-
down straps meet the intersection of the walls and roof. The gussets
distribute the tension of the anchor straps over a wider area, which
improves stability and prevents the straps from damaging the polyiso
foam. The use of gussets also permits my tie-down straps to run
parallel with the walls to the rebar anchors. No guy lines eliminated
the risk of someone tripping over my tie-downs. The rebar was heated
with a torch and bent into an L shape slightly more acute than 90º so
they would sit flush with the ground.

I used 4' cam straps (NRSweb.com) formed into loops connected to the
anchors on one side of the yurt and attached ratcheting straps to the
loops and through the gussets on the eve then connected to the anchors
on the opposite side. The ratcheting straps made it easy to adjust
tension to the tie-down system and the cam straps made it easy to
disconnect the straps when I broke down the yurt.

I built the door on one of the small end walls, which gave me better
use of space inside the yurt. The 2'x3' opening was reinforced with
galvanized flashing to protect the foam edges. I build a door out of
1/8" luan plywood glued to the piece of foam I had cut out for the
doorway. I bolted strap hinges through the galvanized sheet metal on
one side of the door. The door edges were lined with adhesive-backed
weather strip foam to seal the opening from dust. A bungee cord
connected to one of the hinge bolts and an eye bold held the door
closed.

I'm too lazy to tape the interior walls to the tarp to keep the dust
out so I used adhesive-back foam weather stripping on the bottom of
all walls to form a seal against the tarp. Once the yurt is assembled
and strapped down all I have to do is bring in my bedding and gear and
I''m done.

When cutting the hexayurt panels there will be four triangular pieces
of scrap. I taped these together to make a double shelf storage system
where I could keep my lantern, ear plugs, spare batteries, and any
other small items I might need to find during the night.
/Users/billsenger/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2011/Burning Man
2011/IMGP0373.JPG

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