PS: Here's how I used sheet metal flashing to anchor my hexayurt to rebar stakes with ratcheting cargo straps. /Users/billsenger/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Modified/2011/Aug 20, 2011/ IMGP0336.JPG
/Users/billsenger/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2011/Burning Man 2011/IMGP0373.JPG On Jan 11, 7:04 am, Phil Dirt <[email protected]> wrote: > Lindsay, > > An 8 ft hexayurt would be plenty big enough for three. I think a 6 ft > stretch hexayurt would also be adequate, cheaper, and easier to set up > and take down, but a bit more cozy. Depends on how much stuff you want > to bring inside with you. I built a 6 ft hexayurt for last years burn > and mostly put it up by myself. I only had to ask someone to help lift > the roof in place. I took it down by myself. > > I see no need to use mechanical hinges. You'd spend more money for > hardware because you'd need a lot of them and would still have to tape > the hinges to the joints. Tape hinges work fine and also serve to seal > the joints from dust. > > I built my door out of 1/4" plywood sized about 2" larger than the > door opening on the top and sides (2' x 2'). I trimmed down the foam > board that I cut out for the door opening 1" on each side and glued it > to the back of the plywood to provide insulation from heat loss and > noise. I bent sheet metal flashing into a "U" shape 4" on each side > and 1-1/2" wide (the thickness of my foam panels) to fit over the foam > on the top and sides of the door opening. This serves two purposes: it > protects the edges of the foam around the door opening from abrasion > as people come in and out of the door and serves as a reinforcement > where I could mount the door hinges and latch. The door hinges were > just a couple of regular gate strap hinges bolted through the sheet > metal on one side and the latches were hinged shackles (like the kind > you would mount a padlock to) that I bolted to the plywood of the door > inside and out and the other ends were bolted through the sheet metal > flashing on the opening side of the doorway. I added a 3/4" strip of > adhesive peel 'n stick weatherstripping around the outside edges of > the door to create a seal against dust. I also made a removable > transom from a scrap of 2 x 2 (2' x 1-1/2" x 1-1/2") with metal strips > that extend 2" beyond the door opening on both sides. This is to help > seal the doorway and reduce dust from entering the yurt. The transom > slips into place after the yurt has been erected and is removed for > folding and transport. Finally, I put an eye bolt through the flashing > on the hinge side of the door and another through the plywood of the > door and used a bungee cord stretched between them to keep the door > closed. > > Definitely windows. It can get funky inside after a few days of sweat > and accumulated dirty underwear. And without windows you'll need a > flashlight any time you go in the yurt. I cut two 1' x 1' windows, one > on a side wall and one in the opposite end through the roof. The > positioning is for ventilation so cooler air enters through the bottom > vent and exits through the top one. I used furnace filters taped to > the outside. They are corrugated paper so you want to mount them with > the ridges pointing up and down rather than side to side to help keep > dust from collecting in the ridges. Save the foam you cut out for the > window vents so you can tape hinge it on the inside to close the > window. I had enough light filtering through the furnace filters to > see OK during the daytime. > > The three of you should be able to erect it by yourselves, but it's > easy to just ask anyone nearby to lend a hand when you need to set the > roof on top of the walls. I like your idea for sealing the floors. > Taping the walls to the tarp floor is a hassel and waste of tape. I > bought a tarp for the floor and marked the outline of the yurt with a > magic marker during my test set up at home, which made it a lot easier > to position the walls in place when erecting the yurt on the playa. I > just sealed the floor/tarp joint with a bunch of rolled up towels, but > your tube sock sounds much more elegant. This year I plan to put foam > peel 'n stick weatherstripping on all the bottom edges of my walls so > the weight of the yurt will compress the foam and create an easy seal. > > Good luck, > > Bill > > On Jan 9, 9:39 pm, Colorado_Althea <[email protected]> > wrote: > > > > > > > > > Hi everyone!!! > > I am the handy girl in my group so I have decided to tackle to > > hexayurt for our shelter needs. I am thinking for 3 girls this is a > > pretty perfect set up. I do have a few questions though before I get > > started and and maybe one suggestion. So my first question, is it > > better to "hinge" the pieces together with tape or should you use real > > hinges? Second, what is the best way to help the door latch closed? > > Third, windows or NO windows? Finally do you think three girls could > > get this up by themselves? > > I did have one suggestion for a dust barrier when it comes to the > > floors. I made several very long tubes stuffed with beads and cotton > > to act a a draft stop to go all the way around the inside where the > > walls meet the ground. It should work, it keeps the cold air out of my > > house. > > > Thanks for all of your help in advance!!!! > > > Lindsay -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "hexayurt" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected]. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/hexayurt?hl=en.
