Hi Lindsay,
I only put in 1 window last year in my H13 hexayurt, and I put a furnace
filter (the "Eco--pleat" filter) in the rectangular hole that I cut out for
the window (though you really should have at least 2 windows and place a
furnace filter in each one, tape around the edges to seal them, I'll
explain why you should have at least 2 below and why any holes you make for
windows shouldn't just be left as open holes with no protective barrier
inserted).
- You do not want unprotected holes (windows) in your walls or ceiling.
You need to seal them somehow. Leaving open holes in your yurt walls or
ceiling will let in dust and heat, and will defeat the purpose of your yurt.
- I think furnace filters are best, as they are microfine and will do a
good job of keeping out playa dust (which is unbelievably invasive and
extra extra fine).
- I did not put my window up on the ceiling because I thought it would
be too much direct sunlight upon it. So I put it down in one of the base
panel sections, almost diametrically across from the door.
- The door I placed opposite the sunrise, so that the weakest sun of the
day would be on the "backside" of the yurt. Placing the window/furnace
filter across from the door allowed for efficient cross-breeze if I opened
my door. However, I'd recommend putting in 2 windows (2 is more than
enough for light and for a cross-breeze) because that way you don't have to
open your door for a cross-breeze like I did in having only 1 window (and
opening your door gives dust an opportunity to get inside).
- Whether to use regular hinges or not *depends on the materials you are
using*. If you are building one out of plywood, then I would tend to
lean towards real hinges because of the weight of the plywood. I however
decided *against* the plywood and built my H13 out of *RMAX 1" thick
polyiso panels *(not the cheap blue/pink colored polystyrene, but *
polyiso*, the real deal). Strong, light, excellent insulation factor, 2
people can set most of it up by themselves, and you'll need a 3rd person
for a few moments to put the roof section onto the base section. To break
it all down, you'll only need 2. I used the Camp Danger Hinge technique
for my hinges. This allowed me to avoid the need to mitre all the edges of
my panels, saving me lots of time. Of course, you need to buy the
bidirectional filament tape, both 6" and 2" rolls, which you can order from
hexayurttape.com. You do not want to use regular hinges with insulation
panels, as you will have to be drilling holes into the panels, reinforcing
them with small steel plates, and having to use washers most likely to both
anchor the screws as well as distributing the pressure from tightening the
screws down against the steel plates and panels. I just don't think
regular hinges are worth it, especially with insulation panels, and only
for a few days of camping at a time. Seriously...
- If you want extra head room, and a nice tall door, go with the H13
design. The extra headroom also means that with that higher ceiling the
H13 gives you, there is more space above where the heat can rise into,
above your head, instead of keeping the heat down lower where it would make
you more uncomfortable.
- There is an H13 design, and there is an alternative H13 design. I
built the alternative design, which as I mentioned earlier, uses the Camp
Danger Hinge technique, in case you get confused about which one to use.
Though even if you go with the standard 12 panel 8' high design yurt, you
can still use the Camp Danger hinge technique with your insulation panels,
and I again recommend *against* using regular hinges here.
- Yes, your dust solution sounds like it could work. I bought a huge
30' x 20' foot plastic tarp with grommets (not cheap), but it worked great
as I used it for my floor, and then I taped around the outside of the yurt,
creating a seal from the outside, instead of creating a seal on the inside.
The advantage is it never lets dust in at all, because the dust is stopped
on the outside before ever getting in. Your design will let dust in,
granted just a little bit, but it will come in a tad, though your barrier
should work well on not letting the dust get past it. The nice thing about
your idea is it won't use up tape, which you have to throw away later, and
that's not very "sustainable". Additionally, the tape, when you peel it off
of your yurt and/or tarp, will leave old dried glue where the tape used to
be (depending on the tape you use also). Worse yet, it could peel off some
of the outer foil covering that is on the surface of your polyiso
insulation panels. You can always cover any tears in the foil covering
with foil tape, which you can get at any hardware store like Home Despot.
If you'd like to see what mine looked like, I have some pics here:
https://picasaweb.google.com/107900555581651767370/H13Hexayurt?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCIOZgIPix6vX8wE&feat=directlink
Happy Trails!
-Alejandro
On Fri, Mar 9, 2012 at 6:25 PM, Chasomatic <[email protected]> wrote:
> I put 4 furnace filter vents (about 8"x 6" each) on the roof of my
> hexayurt last year. Putting them up high allowed plenty of air to move in
> the hexayurt, and let in a lot of light. No lights were needed in daytime.
> The filters keep dust out and provide light, just what i needed.
>
> I think windows will really compromise the thermal barrier of the hexayurt
> and provide almost a sure entrance for dust. They may be cool to look out
> of but when the sun is coming in it will get hot. Maybe curtains for
> windows?
>
> Charlie
>
> On Monday, January 9, 2012 9:39:41 PM UTC-8, Colorado_Althea wrote:
>>
>> Hi everyone!!!
>> I am the handy girl in my group so I have decided to tackle to
>> hexayurt for our shelter needs. I am thinking for 3 girls this is a
>> pretty perfect set up. I do have a few questions though before I get
>> started and and maybe one suggestion. So my first question, is it
>> better to "hinge" the pieces together with tape or should you use real
>> hinges? Second, what is the best way to help the door latch closed?
>> Third, windows or NO windows? Finally do you think three girls could
>> get this up by themselves?
>> I did have one suggestion for a dust barrier when it comes to the
>> floors. I made several very long tubes stuffed with beads and cotton
>> to act a a draft stop to go all the way around the inside where the
>> walls meet the ground. It should work, it keeps the cold air out of my
>> house.
>>
>> Thanks for all of your help in advance!!!!
>>
>> Lindsay
>
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--
-Alejandro Moreno S.
GreenMBA, Dominican University of California
Cell (415) 578-8731
LinkedIn <http://www.linkedin.com/in/alejandromorenos>
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