Thanks Phil can u maybe email me those pics directly tho they did not come thru 
the MSG board to my phone.
[email protected]

Thanks again everyone!

Linds

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 11, 2012, at 8:22 AM, Phil Dirt <[email protected]> wrote:

> PS: Here's how I used sheet metal flashing to anchor my hexayurt to
> rebar stakes with ratcheting cargo straps.
> /Users/billsenger/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Modified/2011/Aug 20, 2011/
> IMGP0336.JPG
> 
> /Users/billsenger/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2011/Burning Man
> 2011/IMGP0373.JPG
> 
> On Jan 11, 7:04 am, Phil Dirt <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Lindsay,
>> 
>> An 8 ft hexayurt would be plenty big enough for three. I think a 6 ft
>> stretch hexayurt would also be adequate, cheaper, and easier to set up
>> and take down, but a bit more cozy. Depends on how much stuff you want
>> to bring inside with you. I built a 6 ft hexayurt for last years burn
>> and mostly put it up by myself. I only had to ask someone to help lift
>> the roof in place. I took it down by myself.
>> 
>> I see no need to use mechanical hinges. You'd spend more money for
>> hardware because you'd need a lot of them and would still have to tape
>> the hinges to the joints. Tape hinges work fine and also serve to seal
>> the joints from dust.
>> 
>> I built my door out of 1/4" plywood sized about 2" larger than the
>> door opening on the top and sides (2' x 2'). I trimmed down the foam
>> board that I cut out for the door opening 1" on each side and glued it
>> to the back of the plywood to provide insulation from heat loss and
>> noise. I bent sheet metal flashing into a "U" shape 4" on each side
>> and 1-1/2" wide (the thickness of my foam panels) to fit over the foam
>> on the top and sides of the door opening. This serves two purposes: it
>> protects the edges of the foam around the door opening from abrasion
>> as people come in and out of the door and serves as a reinforcement
>> where I could mount the door hinges and latch. The door hinges were
>> just a couple of regular gate strap hinges bolted through the sheet
>> metal on one side and the latches were hinged shackles (like the kind
>> you would mount a padlock to) that I bolted to the plywood of the door
>> inside and out and the other ends were bolted through the sheet metal
>> flashing on the opening side of the doorway. I added a 3/4" strip of
>> adhesive peel 'n stick weatherstripping around the outside edges of
>> the door to create a seal against dust. I also made a removable
>> transom from a scrap of 2 x 2 (2' x 1-1/2" x 1-1/2") with metal strips
>> that extend 2" beyond the door opening on both sides. This is to help
>> seal the doorway and reduce dust from entering the yurt. The transom
>> slips into place after the yurt has been erected and is removed for
>> folding and transport. Finally, I put an eye bolt through the flashing
>> on the hinge side of the door and another through the plywood of the
>> door and used a bungee cord stretched between them to keep the door
>> closed.
>> 
>> Definitely windows. It can get funky inside after a few days of sweat
>> and accumulated dirty underwear. And without windows you'll need a
>> flashlight any time you go in the yurt. I cut two 1' x 1' windows, one
>> on a side wall and one in the opposite end through the roof. The
>> positioning is for ventilation so cooler air enters through the bottom
>> vent and exits through the top one. I used furnace filters taped to
>> the outside. They are corrugated paper so you want to mount them with
>> the ridges pointing up and down rather than side to side to help keep
>> dust from collecting in the ridges. Save the foam you cut out for the
>> window vents so you can tape hinge it on the inside to close the
>> window. I had enough light filtering through the furnace filters to
>> see OK during the daytime.
>> 
>> The three of you should be able to erect it by yourselves, but it's
>> easy to just ask anyone nearby to lend a hand when you need to set the
>> roof on top of the walls. I like your idea for sealing the floors.
>> Taping the walls to the tarp floor is a hassel and waste of tape. I
>> bought a tarp for the floor and marked the outline of the yurt with a
>> magic marker during my test set up at home, which made it a lot easier
>> to position the walls in place when erecting the yurt on the playa. I
>> just sealed the floor/tarp joint with a bunch of rolled up towels, but
>> your tube sock sounds much more elegant. This year I plan to put foam
>> peel 'n stick weatherstripping on all the bottom edges of my walls so
>> the weight of the yurt will compress the foam and create an easy seal.
>> 
>> Good luck,
>> 
>> Bill
>> 
>> On Jan 9, 9:39 pm, Colorado_Althea <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> Hi everyone!!!
>>>   I am the handy girl in my group so I have decided to tackle to
>>> hexayurt for our shelter needs. I am thinking for 3 girls this is a
>>> pretty perfect set up. I do have a few questions though before I get
>>> started and and maybe one suggestion.  So my first question, is it
>>> better to "hinge" the pieces together with tape or should you use real
>>> hinges? Second, what is the best way to help the door latch closed?
>>> Third, windows or NO windows? Finally do you think three girls could
>>> get this up by themselves?
>>>   I did have one suggestion for a dust barrier when it comes to the
>>> floors. I made several very long tubes stuffed with beads and cotton
>>> to act a a draft stop to go all the way around the inside where the
>>> walls meet the ground. It should work, it keeps the cold air out of my
>>> house.
>> 
>>> Thanks for all of your help in advance!!!!
>> 
>>> Lindsay
> 
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