Also, if you want to attach hinges on the panels or door and are concerned
about bolts tearing through the foam, I just picked up some metal flashing
and cut pieces as large as needed, then drilled where I wanted to put the
bolts. My door hinges are run through a "U" shaped length of flashing so
the stress of the hinges on the bolts is distributed over the entire
surface of the metal flashing.
On Friday, March 29, 2013 12:20:23 PM UTC-7, Phil Dirt wrote:
>
> I had my stretch hexayurt for two burns and so far no problem with the
> bifilament tape deteriorating.
>
> I used 2" fender washers to attach nylon carry straps to both ends of my
> yurt. Burn a hole with a heated nail in a section of nylon strapping,
> common washer under the bolt head on outside, fender washer and nut on
> inside. Very handy if you have to move your yurt, which I had to do several
> times.
>
> I put peel and stick foam insulation strips on the bottom edges of my yurt
> and around the doorway. Helps ensure a better seal.
>
> Like the idea of spray on adhesive and fabric hinge. Make sure you remove
> all of the fiberglass foam dust after the miter cutting or the
> tape/adhesive will not stick properly. I wiped mine down with dry rags
> (change often) then went over them again with rags moistened in paint
> thinner. Tedious but important.
>
> On Thursday, March 28, 2013 1:17:41 PM UTC-7, Jacob Rodriguez wrote:
>>
>> So, I'm going to be building a quarter sized nearodesic polyhedron
>> ("quad") dome (1 rmax sheet = 8 triangles) for BRC this year.
>>
>> My foamcore and masking tape prototypes (1:12 and 1:5 scale) have been
>> going well. I'm learning how to do the tape hinges, and how to miter the
>> edges with a razor and angled metal guide. I'm thinking that the full size
>> version will be relatively easy to prepare and construct. My end result is
>> a 6' high, 12' diameter dome that folds down into a 4' x 4' x 15" high box.
>> Minimal tape is required as all but one edge of each quad is hinged with
>> fabric and adhesive. Only the top square, and 4 "corners" need to be fully
>> taped together.
>>
>> I'm seeing lots of people commenting on how the BFT (bi-filament tape) is
>> not really UV resistant, so it flakes off eventually. Also, that it's
>> barely a semi-permanent solution, even if you do tape hinges instead of
>> one-time assembly. I've considered many different types of ways to join the
>> triangles that would last more than one or two times:
>>
>> - zippers (needed like 400 of them, really really expensive)
>> - button snaps and straps (would glue on the snaps to the boards, then
>> use a strap to snap them together; this is not weather proof at all)
>> - velcro (again, pretty expensive if you use the really good velcro,
>> which is likely the only way to guarantee structural integrity and
>> 'weatherproof-ness')
>> - magnets (even using strong ones (N45), embedding them in the edges of
>> the triangles, they could jsut fall out, and still not weather proof. also
>> $$$)
>>
>> ..and a couple of other ideas. I've learned that putting metal
>> hooks/rods/bolts (binder clips) through the boards will just rip through it
>> with a strong enough tug. They could end up just getting loose and boring
>> out big holes. Using plus-shaped ("+") hooks/rods to fasten some sort of
>> fabric over the joints are slightly better because they resist being pulled
>> like a wire cutter through the board, but you would have holes in the board
>> and water could get in. Also, excessive force would also just make the
>> holes looser and ruin the boards eventually. But the idea of using some
>> sort of fabric seems to hold merit.
>>
>> My main goal is to build something that can easily be packed away, and
>> assembled multiple time. Realizing that the main principles of a good BM
>> structure are to seal out rain, dust and light, I think I've come up with a
>> possible solution, but I'm curious why I can't find anyone who has tried it.
>> * I'm hoping to get some cautionary tales or some encouragement on using
>> sport nylon (as opposed to ripstop), and some Super 77 or 80 or 90 spray
>> adhesive, instead of the traditional tape.*
>>
>> The cost might be a little more expensive up front (depending on some
>> factors), but I'm thinking that the nylon will last much longer than just
>> about any tape and is probably just as strong (if not stronger) than BFT.
>> From what I've read, a lot of people end up using some 77 spray anyway
>> because of the lubricating residue on the boards. I'm curious if it's more
>> UV resistant (or at least the adhesive would be) and therefore survive the
>> endless sun bathing better. Also, the concept of cutting fabric into strips
>> and using spray adhesive as a backing gives the user many more options when
>> it comes to materials (stronger fabric and/or stronger glue), rather than
>> just limiting to such a rare find as 6" BFT. Though I'm sure that sport
>> nylon "tape" is even more rare. You can also make the strips as wide as you
>> want, so you are not limited there either.
>>
>> I've built a prototype of a hinged triangle using foamcore, sport nylon
>> and Super 77, which seems very, very strong. Stronger than masking tape
>> anyway. I'm thinking that while it's not waterproof out of the box, I could
>> always spray with some scotchguard, or tape over everything with the foil
>> tape. Foil tape would also help any concerns on fire-hazard as the adhesive
>> is quite flammable. I put a hairdrier on it for about 10 mins on high, to
>> see if excessive heat made the glue loosen, but it did quite well. I'm
>> thinking the higher temp ratings of 80 or 90 adhesive will help in that
>> area. Maybe instead of foil tape. I can spray with some sort of coating
>> that will protect against fire and water at the same time.
>>
>> For cost comparison, my project would be using about 6 rolls of 60yd
>> tape. That's about $20 a roll. Plus about 4 rolls of foil tape (for outside
>> only) at another $20 a roll. I'm thinking that a can of adhesive will last
>> quite a long time, so I may only need about 3 cans at about $20 a pop. The
>> fabric is not that expensive (maybe 5 dollars a yard), so I think all in
>> all, I might come out saving a little cash (if any at all), but ending up
>> with a much more permanent/reusable solution.
>>
>> Anyway, what do you all think? I'm going to be purchasing a piece of
>> polyIso to test. I'm going to make a single "quad" using this nylon and
>> adhesive, then leaving it up on my roof for a week or two to see how it
>> handles the weather. It's Santa Monica CA weather so not quite the same,
>> but should give a good indication as to whether it will survive at all.
>>
>> Thanks for reading!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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