you might try this  http://bit.ly/10EHH1l

not sure if you can find it locally or not

On Mon, Jul 8, 2013 at 1:01 PM, Bill Wiltschko <[email protected]> wrote:

> Kerosene also works.  It's cheap, less volatile, and less dangerous than
> acetone.
>
> Bill Wiltschko
> [email protected]
>
>
>
> -------- Original Message --------
> Subject: Re: [hexayurt] An idea for a more permanent tape solution
> (spray adhesive and nylon)
> From: Steve Upstill <[email protected]>
> Date: Mon, July 08, 2013 9:59 am
> To: [email protected]
>
> Just one more question: is there a socially-sanctioned solvent for
> cleaning up the residue left behind by old yucky tape? (I assume that
> cleaning it up is a good idea before bonding with contact cement, yes?) I'm
> thinking acetone, but others with more experience may have better ideas…
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
>
>  On Jul 8, 2013, at 8:21 AM, Steve Upstill <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>  Thank you, Jacob! This is most useful. (…and I hope I'm not intruding
> too much on group bandwidth by thanking in public.)
>
> Steve Upstill
>  On Jul 7, 2013, at 10:45 PM, Jacob Rodriguez <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> Sorry, not sure about "tap plastics". The stuff I'm buying is used for
> covering furniture, or used as storm windows or whatever. Marine vinyl is
> really good. I used to think it was 4 gauge vinyl, but it's actually 12
> gauge. Probably best to make sure it's UV treated, but mine doesn't say
> specifically and is proving itself quite well outside for the past month or
> so. No cracking or getting hard or anything. Anything that is sold to be
> used outdoors is what you're looking for.
>
> Here's a link to Amazon to give you an idea of what you want:
> http://www.amazon.com/No-Manufacturer-Gauge-Clear-Vinyl/dp/B003ZFA4LM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373261515&sr=8-1&keywords=12+gauge+vinyl
>
> I've also just updated a document that explains a lot of stuff 
> here<https://docs.google.com/document/d/1x-PUR8OMG-4_uxGuXYmoctYTdwBAl8R0mYkJc0gnCYY/edit?usp=sharing>.
> One thing I just learned is not to use the "eco friendly" contact cement
> that cleans up with water. Use the hardcore stuff. I'm all for saving the
> environment, but the 'Woodweld' in a green can is not what you want (takes
> too long to get tacky and dry). Find the "original" stuff in the red can if
> you can.
>
> Using 4 vs 6 inches is up to you. I'm personally going with 4 inches for
> my tight hinges (giving me 2 inches of contact on either board) and then 7
> inch strips on my loose hinges (3 inches will be taken up by my board
> thickness (1.5"), and then 2" on each surface). In my experience, that
> seems to be plenty strong. See my 
> tests<https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B9akv0Z5bU-IazJmZ2NHa2l3dVU&usp=sharing>
>  (labeled
> "Test") on various things. Those prototypes only have 1.5 inches on each
> board, and some of that is over masking tape, reducing their adhesion; they
> hold up pretty well. Though it never hurts to overbuild, and if you're
> doing a regular hexayurt, you won't use too much, so why not? On my quad
> dome, I have something like 136 joins/edges that need to be done, so I will
> require about 31 yds of the stuff. Something like that anyway.
>
> Have fun!
>
>
>
>
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