Thanks for that, Jeff. That would be equivalent to Goo-Gone, right?

Cheers,
Steve

On Jul 8, 2013, at 10:28 AM, jeff harrison <[email protected]> wrote:

> you might try this  http://bit.ly/10EHH1l
> 
> not sure if you can find it locally or not
> 
> On Mon, Jul 8, 2013 at 1:01 PM, Bill Wiltschko <[email protected]> wrote:
> Kerosene also works.  It's cheap, less volatile, and less dangerous than 
> acetone.
>  
> Bill Wiltschko
> [email protected]
>  
>  
> -------- Original Message --------
> Subject: Re: [hexayurt] An idea for a more permanent tape solution
> (spray adhesive and nylon)
> From: Steve Upstill <[email protected]>
> Date: Mon, July 08, 2013 9:59 am
> To: [email protected]
> 
> Just one more question: is there a socially-sanctioned solvent for cleaning 
> up the residue left behind by old yucky tape? (I assume that cleaning it up 
> is a good idea before bonding with contact cement, yes?) I'm thinking 
> acetone, but others with more experience may have better ideas…
> 
> Thanks,
> Steve
> 
> On Jul 8, 2013, at 8:21 AM, Steve Upstill <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
>> Thank you, Jacob! This is most useful. (…and I hope I'm not intruding too 
>> much on group bandwidth by thanking in public.)
>> 
>> Steve Upstill
>> On Jul 7, 2013, at 10:45 PM, Jacob Rodriguez <[email protected]> wrote:
>> 
>>> Sorry, not sure about "tap plastics". The stuff I'm buying is used for 
>>> covering furniture, or used as storm windows or whatever. Marine vinyl is 
>>> really good. I used to think it was 4 gauge vinyl, but it's actually 12 
>>> gauge. Probably best to make sure it's UV treated, but mine doesn't say 
>>> specifically and is proving itself quite well outside for the past month or 
>>> so. No cracking or getting hard or anything. Anything that is sold to be 
>>> used outdoors is what you're looking for.
>>> 
>>> Here's a link to Amazon to give you an idea of what you want: 
>>> http://www.amazon.com/No-Manufacturer-Gauge-Clear-Vinyl/dp/B003ZFA4LM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373261515&sr=8-1&keywords=12+gauge+vinyl
>>>  
>>> 
>>> I've also just updated a document that explains a lot of stuff here. One 
>>> thing I just learned is not to use the "eco friendly" contact cement that 
>>> cleans up with water. Use the hardcore stuff. I'm all for saving the 
>>> environment, but the 'Woodweld' in a green can is not what you want (takes 
>>> too long to get tacky and dry). Find the "original" stuff in the red can if 
>>> you can.
>>> 
>>> Using 4 vs 6 inches is up to you. I'm personally going with 4 inches for my 
>>> tight hinges (giving me 2 inches of contact on either board) and then 7 
>>> inch strips on my loose hinges (3 inches will be taken up by my board 
>>> thickness (1.5"), and then 2" on each surface). In my experience, that 
>>> seems to be plenty strong. See my tests (labeled "Test") on various things. 
>>> Those prototypes only have 1.5 inches on each board, and some of that is 
>>> over masking tape, reducing their adhesion; they hold up pretty well. 
>>> Though it never hurts to overbuild, and if you're doing a regular hexayurt, 
>>> you won't use too much, so why not? On my quad dome, I have something like 
>>> 136 joins/edges that need to be done, so I will require about 31 yds of the 
>>> stuff. Something like that anyway.
>>> 
>>> Have fun!
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
> 
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