beautiful, very creative. Do you have dust color?
On May 31, 2014, at 10:55 AM, Dan March <[email protected]> wrote: > I just wanted to show off my new skirt, door and matching windows! > > A few people have asked if we could make skirts and doors/windows for their > yurts and yes - our only question now is, "How many?" And - yes, if you want > to DIY, we can help there too. > > The design is clever (I think - but hey... I'm the designer...) in that it > solves engineering problems in more or less artistic ways. > > The skirt smooths out installation, spreads the hold-down load, carries the > caravan theme and personalizes the big silver box. You throw it over the > completed, taped up yurt, align the corners and hook on cargo straps > connected to stakes. Go around the yurt carefully tensioning the straps so > they're all equal and all corners line up. Don't be silly and tension them > so they over-stress a wall. The mechanical advantage means you can put a lot > of force on a strap - but don't forget you're just dealing with foam boards! > It's very nice because it makes it easy to get all the tensions equal > > I like the door design a lot because it basically clamps on a door frame > inside and out, gently squeezing the foam board and providing a firmly > anchored, sealable opening. The hinges are attached to both door and frame > with machine screws threaded to tee-nuts embedded in the back side of the > frame and door. This means it can go through an indefinite number of > assembly/dis-assembly cycles. A variety of sealing systems are/can be used. > I've put in a soft compressible edge to let the edge of the foam on the door > mate to the foam panel surrounding the opening. I've also put in magnetic > holders. > > Windows follow the same principal of clamping a frame. Glazing can be fixed > or openable. > > The Funky Sultan look shown is just one notion. Anything you can cut out of > plywood and varnish, stain, paint, upholster... will work. You can use > thinnish plywood to save on shipping weight and size. I used 5/16". I > placed 1/4-20 x 2.5" carriage bolts 4-6" apart around the periphery. I > drilled through the foam to insure against damage to the foam by just pushing > our pounding. I made a ton of somewhat flexible 2" diameter fender washer > type things to spread out the load on the window frame and clamped down with > a wing nut and regular steel washer. The inside of the door frame can also > be clamped down with the same bolts and wing nuts, but since it's got all > kinds of loads on it, it's got a full plywood frame on the inside too. I > made it an inch smaller all the way around as part of the sealing system. > Finally, I added a 1x4 on the bottom inside for the full width of the panel > to beef up the threshold since that seems to be what gets broken first and > most. Again, it has the carriage bolts and wing nuts. > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "hexayurt" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to [email protected]. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/hexayurt. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. > <20140526_085716.jpeg><20140524_183606.jpg><20140531_100619.jpeg> -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "hexayurt" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/hexayurt. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
