Skirts like the ones in the pics are $695.  That's for a yurt with 6 equal
8' wide sides and the usual roof pitch.  We have a few more fabrics and can
do other sizes.  Anyone can contact me directly for details.


On Mon, Jun 2, 2014 at 12:08 AM, hal muskat <[email protected]>
wrote:

> How much for one? I think they look cool. Thanks
>
> peace, Phoenix
>
> On Jun 1, 2014, at 11:46 PM, Dan March <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Is that a sort of Playa cammie?
>
>
> On Sun, Jun 1, 2014 at 2:21 PM, hal muskat <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> beautiful, very creative. Do you have dust color?
>>
>>
>> On May 31, 2014, at 10:55 AM, Dan March <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> I just wanted to show off my new skirt, door and matching windows!
>>
>> A few people have asked if we could make skirts and doors/windows for
>> their yurts and yes - our only question now is, "How many?"  And - yes, if
>> you want to DIY, we can help there too.
>>
>> The design is clever (I think - but hey... I'm the designer...) in that
>> it solves engineering problems in more or less artistic ways.
>>
>> The skirt smooths out installation, spreads the hold-down load, carries
>> the caravan theme and personalizes the big silver box.  You throw it over
>> the completed, taped up yurt, align the corners and hook on cargo straps
>> connected to stakes.  Go around the yurt carefully tensioning the straps so
>> they're all equal and all corners line up.  Don't be silly and tension them
>> so they over-stress a wall.  The mechanical advantage means you can put a
>> lot of force on a strap - but don't forget you're just dealing with foam
>> boards!  It's very nice because it makes it easy to get all the tensions
>> equal
>>
>> I like the door design a lot because it basically clamps on a door frame
>> inside and out, gently squeezing the foam board and providing a firmly
>> anchored, sealable opening.  The hinges are attached to both door and frame
>> with machine screws threaded to tee-nuts embedded in the back side of the
>> frame and door.  This means it can go through an indefinite number of
>> assembly/dis-assembly cycles.  A variety of sealing systems are/can be
>> used.  I've put in a soft compressible edge to let the edge of the foam on
>> the door mate to the foam panel surrounding the opening.  I've also put in
>> magnetic holders.
>>
>> Windows follow the same principal of clamping a frame.  Glazing can be
>> fixed or openable.
>>
>> The Funky Sultan look shown is just one notion.  Anything you can cut out
>> of plywood and varnish, stain, paint, upholster... will work.  You can use
>> thinnish plywood to save on shipping weight and size.  I used 5/16".  I
>> placed 1/4-20 x 2.5" carriage bolts 4-6" apart around the periphery.  I
>> drilled through the foam to insure against damage to the foam by just
>> pushing our pounding.  I made a ton of somewhat flexible 2" diameter fender
>> washer type things to spread out the load on the window frame and clamped
>> down with a wing nut and regular steel washer.  The inside of the door
>> frame can also be clamped down with the same bolts and wing nuts, but since
>> it's got all kinds of loads on it, it's got a full plywood frame on the
>> inside too.  I made it an inch smaller all the way around as part of the
>> sealing system.  Finally, I added a 1x4 on the bottom inside for the full
>> width of the panel to beef up the threshold since that seems to be what
>> gets broken first and most.  Again, it has the carriage bolts and wing nuts.
>>
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>> <20140526_085716.jpeg><20140524_183606.jpg><20140531_100619.jpeg>
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